Replacing Anchor Windlass foot switch
- Thread starter Kevdon22
- Start date
Thanks to all for the suggestions and comments. I purchased the expensive one hand wire stripper at home depot and hope to install the new switch this weekend when my grandson visits the boat.
David, there is no way to open a larger hole through the vertical panel that the switch wires pass through as it exits the locker. I can just touch the wire hole in the panel, on the starboard side, as I extend my arm through the small hatch on top portside of the rope locker. I have not gained access to the compartment that the wire passes into after tearing up the forward stateroom. The hatch is to small for me to enter with anything except one hand, hopefully my more agile grandson can get two hands into reach in and connect the existing wire end that goes to the switch.
Guys, I don't see any reasonable way to run new wires from the solenoid which is not close to the windlass without tearing out a lot of interior stuff which may be difficult to properly restore.
I'll let you know if I make progress this weekend.
David, there is no way to open a larger hole through the vertical panel that the switch wires pass through as it exits the locker. I can just touch the wire hole in the panel, on the starboard side, as I extend my arm through the small hatch on top portside of the rope locker. I have not gained access to the compartment that the wire passes into after tearing up the forward stateroom. The hatch is to small for me to enter with anything except one hand, hopefully my more agile grandson can get two hands into reach in and connect the existing wire end that goes to the switch.
Guys, I don't see any reasonable way to run new wires from the solenoid which is not close to the windlass without tearing out a lot of interior stuff which may be difficult to properly restore.
I'll let you know if I make progress this weekend.
...Hey guys, if you recall my earlier post, I indicated that the solenoid is located in the bilge in the area of the galley. I never indicated that the solenoid was not accessible. Since it is so far away from the windlass, mounted above the rope locker, the wiring run would be difficult to duplicate without a major removal of panels in the stateroom, etc. I have not seen any reason to replace the wiring all the way back to the solenoid since the boat is only 13 years old.
I realize this is a long thread but here is the earlier comment on the location of the solenoid:
"Yesterday, with the assistance of my grandson, I pulled off the mattress in the forward stateroom and found several storage hatches (which I never use) through the plywood panels that support mattress, but still no visible access to the compartment where the wiring exits the rope locker. The solenoid system is in the bilge at the galley about 15 foot aft of the rope locker, there is no way to trace the wiring between the solenoid and the switches."
There is an access hatch through the floor at the galley where the Vacuflush and the AC pump are located. All these components can be easily replaced through that hatch. All three AC units are located out of the bilge where repair or replacement is possible. I have no operating hardware that cannot be inspected or maintained.
Appreciate all comments especially the availability of wire strippers that can be operated with one hand. If that does not work, I will try the blazing wire connectors
I realize this is a long thread but here is the earlier comment on the location of the solenoid:
"Yesterday, with the assistance of my grandson, I pulled off the mattress in the forward stateroom and found several storage hatches (which I never use) through the plywood panels that support mattress, but still no visible access to the compartment where the wiring exits the rope locker. The solenoid system is in the bilge at the galley about 15 foot aft of the rope locker, there is no way to trace the wiring between the solenoid and the switches."
There is an access hatch through the floor at the galley where the Vacuflush and the AC pump are located. All these components can be easily replaced through that hatch. All three AC units are located out of the bilge where repair or replacement is possible. I have no operating hardware that cannot be inspected or maintained.
Appreciate all comments especially the availability of wire strippers that can be operated with one hand. If that does not work, I will try the blazing wire connectors
Folks,
With the lean, agile, 125 # body of my grandson we got the new footswitch installed and operating. Using the Klein Katapult stripping tool I bought at Home Depot, he was able to strip the wires and make the connection to the new switch wire. Even though he has a small frame, it was still a difficult access since the wires were not close to the hatch. Thanks to Gene for the tip. This stripper a handy tool if you need to strip a lot of wires or have limited access, and it cost about $25 at Home Depot. There are other manufacturers of similar strippers that may or not be better. This tool is very well made.
See:
http://www.kleintools.com/catalog/a...cutters/katapult-wire-strippercutter-8-22-awg
I bought the new replacement switch through a Lewmar distributor and cut into the old switch which is encased in hypalon like rubber which was very tough to remove. I am glad that I purchased the original equipment replacement since it seemed to be well made. It seems like the spring action that opens the contacts was not operating.
Thanks again for the helpful comments
With the lean, agile, 125 # body of my grandson we got the new footswitch installed and operating. Using the Klein Katapult stripping tool I bought at Home Depot, he was able to strip the wires and make the connection to the new switch wire. Even though he has a small frame, it was still a difficult access since the wires were not close to the hatch. Thanks to Gene for the tip. This stripper a handy tool if you need to strip a lot of wires or have limited access, and it cost about $25 at Home Depot. There are other manufacturers of similar strippers that may or not be better. This tool is very well made.
See:
http://www.kleintools.com/catalog/a...cutters/katapult-wire-strippercutter-8-22-awg
I bought the new replacement switch through a Lewmar distributor and cut into the old switch which is encased in hypalon like rubber which was very tough to remove. I am glad that I purchased the original equipment replacement since it seemed to be well made. It seems like the spring action that opens the contacts was not operating.
Thanks again for the helpful comments
Capt. Bill1
Active member
- Joined
- Jan 1, 2000
- RO Number
- 2017
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- 6,127
As I said, it's a "if all else fails" suggestion. And since the wire coming off the foot switch now are no more that #14 I bet, those connectors should hold the load.