Restoring an oldie, this should get interesting...

quote:
Originally posted by Brian N

Next he needs to safely get the windshield off, I'm sure we'd never find a replacement...

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As you can see, the windshield is held in place with the "hooks" through the windshield then through the hull. It's a tough situation either way. Try to unscrew it from the hull and the material is corroded, you may crack the windshield from the torque applied to the nut and bolt assembly. Try and remove it from the top and the angle for the screwdriver is insane. DAMHIK

IF (big IF) you can hold the bolt assembly with vice grips or the like and remove from under the bow, you may be better off. Then you can gently pry it with a plastic plaster knife or the like. I imagine there is a lot of crud holding it to the hull.

Good luck. I'm sure you would rather help him than work!
 
Got the windshield safely removed today. We only had to cut one nut that was too seized to remove. The windshield is tucked away for safe keeping.

He has removed everything from the hull and now we're trying to make the decision on whether to try to re-clear coat the metal flake or sand it down and paint it.
 
Brian, its all doable. I bought our 1988 We;;craft 190 Classic about 5 years ago. it appeared to be in better shape than it really was so over the years I've been slowly reconditioning it piece by piece. This past winter I rebuilt the transom...that was a hell of a task. Now I know that boat inside and out, stem to stern. It may not be the prettiest boat but its all mine and I'm damn proud of it. Your son will learn so much by rebuilding that boat and he'll know every nut, bolt, stitch and accessory when he's finished. Its a cool looking boat and he'll be proud of it.

FYI, I'm planning to build a boat with my grandson soon. Looking at the Glen-L Squirt.
 
We're going to take a shot at removing the rest of the peeling clear coat and re-applying. We'll lcean the exposed metal flake carefully and see if we can get the rest of the peeling clear coat off. Any suggestions on what to use as a replacement clear coat?
 
A car paint store should have some advice on clear coats.

Avoid catalyzed coatings because they contain isocyanates. You don't want to breathe that stuff.
 
Thanks Bruce, my only concern was whether the automotive stuff would hold up well on a boat.
 
Brian,
I have a Formula with Imron paint with clear coat over it. The clear coat is same as the
automotive clear coat. I have done some touch ups with no problems.
 
Guys, looking at the pictures above, how should we try to remove the clear coat that has not yet peeled off? Sand it?
 
I don't see how you will get the clear coat off without damaging the very thin metal flake. Take some pix to a car body shop and ask what they recommend.

Imron will stand up well but IIRC it is an catalyzed coating and cause neurological damage. You don't want to mess with your kids brain. Imron awlgrip etc are all used on boats trucks planes etc. Very durable finish.

It has been a long time since I did any paint work so look at modern coatings they may be much safer though probably harder to use.

I wouldn't worry about using the coating on a boat above the water line because it wont be in the water all that mu
 
Bruce, my concern is how it will look if we don't remove the old clear coat. We can scrape up all the loose stuff, but I don't want it to peel off later after we do all the work. Thoughts?
 
Probably nothing to do but complete sand off old finish, fill and prime. I doubt you will be able to do metal flake but solid colors aren't too hard.
I have had clear coats fail and I wound up sanding down and starting over.

that's why I suggested a visit to a paint shop. Get a quote and ask what they would do.
 
I don't think you can buy lacquer any more but if you can it is very easy to work with and very forgiving.
 
So, the metal flake finish was too far gone to save, we have been sanding to get down to a surface we can prime and paint. Everything has been stripped from the hull, the engine pulled an all wiring removed. We've found a few unforeseen problems, weak spots that will need reinforcing, some transom work we didn't anticipate, etc. Right now we're focused on the hull, when that's sorted out we'll get her painted then move on to the interior. The engine and rewiring will come last.

The winter put a damper on progress, the boat was in the garage and we couldn't do a whole lot on it. Now that the nice weather is coming back we're back at it with a June deadline in sight!

I'll put some new pictures up shortly...having some trouble with my Photobucket account...
 
Photobucket has been a dog and I gave up on it.

Good luck with the restart. Are you sending it out for paint or are you going to roll and tip?
 
It's all going to be DIY...painful learning curve and all...
 
I was just thinking of this thread the other day and wondering how the project was going? Looking forward to seeing some photos of your progress when you get them posted.
 
How is the interior hull. Is there exposed glass fibers. You're not going to be able to sand it down. Best thing is to seal it with an epoxy or urethane paint. If it reads "100% solids", it means no Volitile Organic Compounds (VOC). No solvents to breathe. That's epoxy.

Don't buy the battleship gray Deck paint. It's the same stuff as porch paint at 1/2 the price. Test by smelling both. It's the only paint that smells like that.

That clear coat/ metal flake, I guess you've found out by now is not repairable. It's going to be hard to hide a partial sanding of the metal flake. It's gonna show where the metal flake and clear coat edges meet. You might get away with sanding off large sections of 'panels' of the clear coat so it won't show.. Imron is the best paint to use IMO.
 
As to fumes and VOC's if you are concerned, just get a proper NIOSH approved organic vapor respirator or two and paint away. My friend and myself painted a car in the garage with Dupont Centauri, a two stage catalyzed paint with isocyanates. We both wore the masks I mentioned and suffered no ill effects. The car came out looking like a factory paint job!
You have a great project to do with your son. Looking forward to more pics.

Have you thought about rolling on truck bed liner as an interior hull coating? I know guys use it on Jon boats and other fishing boats, its durable and covers a multitude of sins.
 
The project went to a whole new level today. Started working on the transom and found out that it was a complete mess of waterlogged rotten wood inside the outer hull shell of fiberglass.

So, our work today was removing the last of the wiring, taking off the rubrail, and drilling out several dozen rivets. Tomorrow, the deck is coming off and we'll figure out how to start rebuilding the transom and repairing some other structural issues the loser we bought it from hid with monkey wrench fixes.

Question for the minds here... Marine plywood is very hard to find around here, in rebuilding the transom will pressure treated exterior 3/4" plywood do the trick if it's properly sealed and fiberglassed?
 
Here we go...

The interior is stripped out, all re-usable hardware is tucked safely away and the windshield is safely put away where it won't get broken.

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We modified an engine stand I had in the garage to hold it and pulled the outboard.

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Found that beneath the aluminum plate the previous owner put under the motor were several unsealed holes.

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Needless to say, once we exposed the inside of the transom, the wood backing was, well, I'll let the pictures speak for themselves...

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So there's only one way to really get in there and do this right...

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Rub rail rubber removed, all rivets drilled out, rub rail channel removed.

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Tomorrow the cap comes off and we see just how interesting this is going to get...
 
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