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Is replacing risers and elbows on a Crusader 454 inboard a DIY job? Or should the pros do it? Anyone ever done this themselves?
Risers, elbows, and other fun stuff..
- Thread starter Bruce Herrington
- Start date
Guess the hardest part is removing the bolts but I`d say a 3-4 hour job. Beware of the exaust manifold gaskets, they can be installed backwards. One trick using the 1 piece gaskets is to notch the end holes so they fit over the bolts.
Install the manifolds using a center bolt without any gaskets. Install the 2 end bolts by a few threads and remove the center bolt. Now slide the gasket into the gap and over the end bolts, install the middle bolts and tighten.
Install the manifolds using a center bolt without any gaskets. Install the 2 end bolts by a few threads and remove the center bolt. Now slide the gasket into the gap and over the end bolts, install the middle bolts and tighten.
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You make it sound easy enough; thanks alien.
Kind of like those tv shows where they build a house in 1 hr.
It is a pretty big job to tackle in a challenging location. I did it once (on different engine). Stuff is heavy. My preference is to contract this one out. Save the hassle, sore vocal cords and beat up knuckles. Good luck.
There was no mention about replacing manifolds from the OP. Also, if engines are fresh water cooled, the manifolds are filled with antifreeze and should last many years.
The important thing to remember is to make sure all mating surfaces are clean and flat. Preparation, new hardware and proper torque are key to not having any leaks. If you have decent mechanical ability, this is a relatively easy job.
A few repeat and added suggestions:
Use new studs, bolts and lock washers. . The old ones will be stretched, corroded and malformed. If the haven't been apart for a long time the fasteners may be corroded in place and very reluctant. Where you can fit it , an impact wrench may speed the removal process. Some say don't due to torque issues , but I sparingly use a little anti-seize on threads and bolt/stud smooth shafts to substantially ease next removal in 3-5 yrs.
One of the more difficult procedures may be separating the exhaust hoses from the riser/elbow .
I find placing a small-blade flat screwdriver in a vise and heating the shaft with a torch and bending into open u-shape helps me tuck it into the tight space between hose and cast iron and I can pull toward me and tap the driver to help loosen under the hose.
A quality large strap wrench on the hose can also aid breaking the corrosion bond there. But inevitably, I find beating the last of that bond is only done by lifting the riser/elbow off the studs and twisting inside the nearly immovable thick exhaust hose.
If the gasket block off plate has a lip on the exhaust hole , lip is up.
If the boat is in the water, close the engine RW seacocks . And to help avoid sinking the boat in the case the disconnected open exhaust hoses slip below the water line, placing PVC pipe caps of the same OD as the ID of the hose partially inside the hose end and hose clamping will keep your boat safe during the work.
Drain A/F coolant from the hose connection at the bottom of the ex. manifold so it doesn't flow into manifold exhaust passages, through open exhaust valves and into cylinders. If you save the all the coolant you will know how much needs replacing during the later gradual fill and air-purge process.
Deck the iron mating surfaces flat with a (preferably sharp new) flat metal file and always only file away from the handle to avoid dulling the file with backstokes. You will quickly see the benefit of this as the warped surface becomes evident with filing.
Use a torque wrench on accessible fasteners when installing the new parts and get the feel for needed torque when tightening nuts on stud nuts where the torque wrench won't fit. Then after a few run/cool cycles, check torque of all fasteners at least once more.
Have fun!
Use new studs, bolts and lock washers. . The old ones will be stretched, corroded and malformed. If the haven't been apart for a long time the fasteners may be corroded in place and very reluctant. Where you can fit it , an impact wrench may speed the removal process. Some say don't due to torque issues , but I sparingly use a little anti-seize on threads and bolt/stud smooth shafts to substantially ease next removal in 3-5 yrs.
One of the more difficult procedures may be separating the exhaust hoses from the riser/elbow .
I find placing a small-blade flat screwdriver in a vise and heating the shaft with a torch and bending into open u-shape helps me tuck it into the tight space between hose and cast iron and I can pull toward me and tap the driver to help loosen under the hose.
A quality large strap wrench on the hose can also aid breaking the corrosion bond there. But inevitably, I find beating the last of that bond is only done by lifting the riser/elbow off the studs and twisting inside the nearly immovable thick exhaust hose.
If the gasket block off plate has a lip on the exhaust hole , lip is up.
If the boat is in the water, close the engine RW seacocks . And to help avoid sinking the boat in the case the disconnected open exhaust hoses slip below the water line, placing PVC pipe caps of the same OD as the ID of the hose partially inside the hose end and hose clamping will keep your boat safe during the work.
Drain A/F coolant from the hose connection at the bottom of the ex. manifold so it doesn't flow into manifold exhaust passages, through open exhaust valves and into cylinders. If you save the all the coolant you will know how much needs replacing during the later gradual fill and air-purge process.
Deck the iron mating surfaces flat with a (preferably sharp new) flat metal file and always only file away from the handle to avoid dulling the file with backstokes. You will quickly see the benefit of this as the warped surface becomes evident with filing.
Use a torque wrench on accessible fasteners when installing the new parts and get the feel for needed torque when tightening nuts on stud nuts where the torque wrench won't fit. Then after a few run/cool cycles, check torque of all fasteners at least once more.
Have fun!
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Good information; many thanks to each of you. Yes, it is FWC.
The answers for this one post is worth more than the price of admission.
I'll give it a shot.
The answers for this one post is worth more than the price of admission.
I'll give it a shot.
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Depending on the condition of all your nuts and bolts, you might want to get some PB Blaster and soak everything before tackling this job. Spray it good and even run the engine for a few minutes. The engine vibrations will help the lubricant soak down into the threads. maybe do this a couple of times over several days. can't hurt and might save a few busted knuckles.
Comment re exhaust hose reminds me that you should check it carefully or if its been on for a while consider replacing it. I replaced my risers a few years ago and the exhaust hose looked to be in good condition but within a year one of them split - biggest mess you could think of and has taken several cleans to get the area workable the water and/or soot just seemed to get into everything. The riser replacement job was easy enough but having someone to assist will also made it easier and less potential peripheral damage.
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Hoses are definitely on the list; 10-4 on the PB Blaster..
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If you remove the Bolts/nuts with a Power driver, DO-NOT Jazz the Trigger as you are removing those old Bolts/Nuts.
An amazing amount of heat develops in the threads as you un-screw the fastener.
If you heat up the threads with a blast of power, then let off the Trigger, the Bolt/nut will weld itself together.
Then you hit the trigger again and something's gonna Die! In place!
SO, get the socket seated, hold that trigger down till the fastener is OFF!
I like Air power better than Electric.
An amazing amount of heat develops in the threads as you un-screw the fastener.
If you heat up the threads with a blast of power, then let off the Trigger, the Bolt/nut will weld itself together.
Then you hit the trigger again and something's gonna Die! In place!
SO, get the socket seated, hold that trigger down till the fastener is OFF!
I like Air power better than Electric.
Get yourself a couple of threaded studs, the same thread size as the exhaust manifold bolts, and an inch or so longer. Use them on the ends, slide the gasket over them, then slide the manifold in to place. Get the center manifold bolts just snug, remove the studs from the ends, replace with manifold bolts. Then tighten everything to specs.
I find that using the long threaded studs makes the job a lot easier than wrestling with heavy manifolds and gaskets in a fairly tight space while you are trying to get bolts started.
I find that using the long threaded studs makes the job a lot easier than wrestling with heavy manifolds and gaskets in a fairly tight space while you are trying to get bolts started.
Our boat isn't big enough to have an "engine room" of any description. By that I mean at least a flat cockpit sole all the way over the engine. Rather we have a "Motor Box" on the order of a ski boat except one end open at the stern. This prevents (a) sliding Manifold over Studs because of the close sides of the Box, and (b) sliding the Spacer then the Elbow down those long studs because the Elbow extends aft below the top edge of the Box. First set I changed, I assembled the whole "Side," Manifold, Spacer, and Elbow, and tried to horse it in place. Heavy and awkward. This last time I installed the Manifold then stacked up the Gasket, Spacer, Gasket, Elbow, and worked the Studs down into place. Much easier! But both methods had the problem that installing the flexible connectors was very tough. So... Next Time... Fabricate a Wooden Block the shape of a Spacer, with a thin block on the bottom to keep it from sliding on the Manifold. Install Manifold, then rest Block on Manifold and position the Elbow IN the Coupling, resting on the Block. Remove Block and place Gasket, Spacer, Gasket and install Studs.
I have a Stud Remover that'll pull old Studs, probably damaging Threads. I can tighten new Studs in place using two Nuts jammed together. That's the Plan. Now to remember it and try it in three years...
I have a Stud Remover that'll pull old Studs, probably damaging Threads. I can tighten new Studs in place using two Nuts jammed together. That's the Plan. Now to remember it and try it in three years...
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Thanks, everyone. Good advice, will read these posts again in a few weeks prior to doing the work.