Rode jamb

J

jacko

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Nov 28, 2007
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29042
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I am having issues retrieving my rode. It is 3 strand and keeps getting jammed up in the gypsy. My winch is a Lewmar Simpson Sprint 1000 with 9/16s 3 strand. I do not know how old the rode is but it looks to be stiff. I pulled it out of the anchor locker and soaked it for a day in water and fabric softener yet it is still pretty stiff. What are my options for get this working and to stop jamming up?
 
Prior to replacing it, I would try removing it, place it in a large mesh hospital / prison laundry bag and wash it some baby diaper detergent (Dreft or the like) and borax and wash it in a large laundrymat front loader. If the line itself is not trashed, the stuff in it needs to be agitated out.

Reverse the line when you put it back on so you are streching it from the opposite end. If that doesnt work, replace it. You are only out maybe $8 bucks. If there is any good line in the entire rode, cut it out for spare lines for raft ups etc...
 
stiff should be better look for another reason for jamming.
 
I am having the same problem but with a Good windlass. I think the line I have is not correct.(not windlass grade) It gets mashed down and jams up too. All my internal parts have been updated also. I will be replacing mine this weekend hopefully.

New line may fix your problem.
 
I'm with Bruce. When the line is soft it tends to stay in the gypsy and jam rather than playing out as it should.
 
I have been looking at the schematic and maybe the chain/rope Fleming is missing. I need to go and take a look to see if there is one at all on this. I did not recall seeing one there.
 
It s been a while since I ve used line in a WL but i recall older stiff line causing two different issues

It can jam downstream of the WL in the hawsepipe or in the locker

Or sometimes if you don't have enough tension on the rode the capstan can't grip it enough and slip
 
It's just as likely that the rode is 'piling up' in the anchor locker, and doesn't have enough free-fall room to pull itself down as it feeds through the windlass. It'll then back up and jam.

I finally figured this out on mine last weekend. I opened the inspection hatch next to the windlass. As I retrieved and got closer to the anchor end, I reached into the locker and swept the piled rode aside. I haven't taken a close look yet to see if this is solvable, but at least I can make it work until I come up with a fix.
 
I had a problem due to twisting of the line as I brought it up with the windless controlled from the helm. My problem was solved with a swivel. Looks like a huge fishing tackle swivel LOL. After it was installed, I would let the anchor dangle just above the water as the swivel turned and untwisted the line. Then I could bring up the anchor the rest of the way with no problems. Here is a pic:

anchorswival4.jpg
 
I have a stiff rode as well...(hold the comments please) 8-) the problem is the vertical drop needed to allow the rode to coil properly.. Look at the install specs for your unit and see if the drop is sufficient. I anchor in shallow water most of the time and the first 75 feet or so are always being run out and retrieved. I had to rearange the rode in the locker to move some of the rode that remains onboard off to the side a bit to allow the drop to be far enough to allow the rode to coil properly.
 
Treat that windlass gently. It is no longer available new. The replacement windless does not fit the same hole and requires a rewire of your boat. Rebuild is expensive. I just paid %1295 for a rebuild. A new windlass would have been cheaper to purchase, but then the boat mod would have eaten up the savings. The motor alone is %495.

George
 
I hade similiar issues with my Lewmar. It helped when I played out all the line and soaked in a large cooler with dishwashing liquid for a few days but it still jambs. The Lewmars in my opinion are not well designed for boats with shallow lockers. They don't play the line in well and it will bunch up and jamb in the gypsy. I have looked at three solutions.

1) Got to all chain, though the chain jambs are harder to get out!
2) Change the whole unit (not cheap)
3) Stand by unit and use foot pedals and watch it.

Currently I use #3 option but admit it is a pain especially if it jambs after anchor is free or before it sets and I am not at the helm! Since I don't anchor much, I deal with it for now but admit it is a pain WL compared to my Maxell I had. I would switch to a maxell if I could. That unit is sealed and if the rode goes in, it comes out. Issue with Lewmar is it is all open, so if it jambs going in, it don't drop freely and jambs in gypsy. I like Maxell design better!
 
jacko- Does your windless mfgr. recommend the single-braid, 8-plait "square" line as many do? I don't have a windless but have been told several times that line is the most cooperative and settles nicely in the locker as well. It just takes a little more time to splice : http://www.johndanicic.com/sailing pages/GOB articles/JF07_Splicing.pdf .

Fwiw- Mostly for fun, I've found a lot of anchors up to 8000 lbs over the years while diving . From time to time I came across one with ...1/2... a swivel on the free end of the chain, of the type in Liz/Flutterby's pic. That type has a fraction of the load rating as the chain and should be over-sized in diameter to at least surpass the load -rating of the chain . They tend to wear/weaken faster than the chain links. IMO, there are much better (& of course pricier ) streamlined swivels that may help considerably with your present setup.
 
Is this a new to you rig? As stated above,check the free fall depth. Also is it possible that 1/2" line would work better than the 9/16?
Good luck,
Ron
 
Flutter makes a good point when she reminds us that we need to untwist the rode. As swivel may lep after the line has been untwisted.
 
Try switching the rode end-for-end as mentioned before. Consider using the elongated chain splice rather than the standard chain back splice when you connect rode back onto the chain. There are a bunch of web sites that show you the splice. If that doesn't work, the 8 plait line is supposed to work much better, but it ain't cheap. A stainless anchor swivel that runs through a roller is also available.
 
Flutterby had a good suggestion...also pde "stiff isn't cause for jamming". Another is to check the stripper on the windlass. It's function is to peel the rode and chain off the gypsy. One more..(jrpar post)..how deep is the fall from the windlass to where it coils in the locker? Do you have the excess rope stored directly under the windlass fall? If you have a shallow locker than nothing will improve this condition. It's called a bad design.
 
I have the same windlass and looked into the 8 plait but it is NOT recommended for that windlass.

One thing I've noticed is I have to keep some tension on the line when retrieving. If I move the boat up on the line too fast it will get stuck and I'll have to let the line back out again. If I slowly bump the engines in and out of gear to move up on the line so some tension stays on the line it's normally fine.
 
Tension on the rode helps to keey the line seated in the gypsy until it's stripped off to enter the locker. I've operated a few similar units and without tension, the rode doesn't seat far enough into the gypsy to allow it to be carried all the way around to the stripper. Some units have a cam that rides on the rode as a guide to keep the rode on the gypsy... Not sure if this unit has one. They do break fairly easy if a jam occurs..

Specs I found indicate that the min fall should be 300mm (12”) between underside of deck and stored anchor rope/chain. They fail to mention that this should be the min distance WITH the rode fully stowed. A modest coil of 9/16 line will eat into that distance quickly and not allow for the drop needed...Rode backs up and causes the jam.

John
 
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