Roll and tipping a large area

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drfeno

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Joined
Jun 19, 2008
RO Number
30284
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133
I'm about to embark on painting my boat. I'm going to use petit easypoxy 2. I've tried some bits an pieces as tests, and I like the results. My question is, is there a good technique for painting a large area like the foredeck and walkaround? I've been trying to think of how to do it and still maintain a wet edge. Will 2 part poly remain wet long enough to do a section over 10 feet long? Actually, to maintain a 1 piece job, I would need to go from the pulpit, to the foredeck, around the walkarounds, the sides of the pilothouse and back up the other side to the foredeck again. Is there a good way to create a start and end point (masking tape line?) or some other technique?
 
A large job like that can call for at least two people and being very organized.

You'll need shade, a day will little or no wind and a cool day wouldn't hurt either. Along with thinning the paint out a bit more to keep a working wet edge longer. I don't see how you are going to go all around the boat and end up with a wet edge to meet on the other side. Better off to find a natural break somewhere at the bow and stern and do one side at a time. Or better yet break it up into even more sections. Perhaps make breaks by masking off at some logical point to form a break. Be sure you mix up enough paint, even if it's a bit to much, to finish any part of the job without having to stop to mix up more in the middle of applying a coat.
 
One member here on BE, just got done painting his 36' Carver from the hull on down, roll and tip. He went from white to blue. Looks good.

tscarver1_zps5c766510.jpg


tscarver2_zps63f989e6.jpg
 
Thanks for the input. I'm also planning on using blue for the hull sides. I'll probably have to break up the topside job into smaller areas. I just have to figure out where to make the breaks. especially since multiple painters is not a option. I'm pretty much on my own. The boat is covered with a system of tarps that gives me access to basically the entire topside, so it won't be windy. I just have to get a couple days of good temp and humidity.
 
It really is a two man job.
I rolled and tipped my old pacemaker years ago with my bil. He rolled the paint on and I tipped it out.

We started on the starboard corner and continued until we finished the one coat. Waited until dry and did 2nd coat and third coat.

Came out looking great. Starting at the rear corner, left us a nice edge to work into.

Good luck

Tom
 
quote:
Originally posted by drfeno

Thanks for the input. I'm also planning on using blue for the hull sides. I'll probably have to break up the topside job into smaller areas. I just have to figure out where to make the breaks. especially since multiple painters is not a option. I'm pretty much on my own. The boat is covered with a system of tarps that gives me access to basically the entire topside, so it won't be windy. I just have to get a couple days of good temp and humidity.

Click to expand...

My guess would be low humidity?
The Albin above looks absolutely drop dead beautiful! It's an Awlgrip job correct?
Bill
 
quote:
Originally posted by drfeno

Thanks for the input. I'm also planning on using blue for the hull sides.

Click to expand...


Dark colors show all flaws. Even if you get the gelcoat sanded down to a very smooth finish you can still end up with print through that shows the patten of the glass cloth beneath the gelcoat if you don't use enough and/or the proper primer. Then there is the issues that can arise from how hot a dark hull can get in the sun. Changing to a dark hull requires more prep then a plain white does.
 
Dark colors also look much worse in the event of dock rash. Consider using a coating that is repairable. Some can't be blended for repairs.
 
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