Sanitation Hose Suggestions

Thanks for all the feedback everyone - got SeaLand OdorSafe on order. Like many have said, the amount of time it will take me to pull out all the old hose and run the new hose makes the extra investment in quality hose worth it!
 
quote:
Originally posted by hawkeyes01

Thanks for all the feedback everyone - got SeaLand OdorSafe on order. Like many have said, the amount of time it will take me to pull out all the old hose and run the new hose makes the extra investment in quality hose worth it!

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I just did this job myself this summer. I'll pass on a tip I got from Capt. Bill.

Use a 1 1/2 barb to connect the new hose to the old hose. As you pull out the old hose feed the new hose along with it. Made the job MUCH easier.

Bob
 
I used Sealand, part number : 306342871. It was under $8 a foot and I was able to buy it from an internet reseller without having to buy it by the carton. It made a HUGE difference in the smell of the boat. The boat had very little oder once on it with the cabin opened up; but the initial smell when arriving to the boat when it was closed up for the week weird. It smelled kinda of musty. After replacing the hose there was no more smell.
 
quote:
Beware, it may look like sanitation hose, BUT its spa hose....and WILL NOT clamp down tight, not to mention control the odor

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interesting, not long ago I bought a some 1" white hose from west marine for a air conditioning inlet. I couldn’t get it to tighten on the plastic hose barb and finally gooped it well with 5200, that worked. The plumbig guy at HD said you were supposed to use PVC glue and female PVC fittings but I wasnt going to go without clamps below the water line.
I reported the problem here and nobody had the same failure to seal experience now I am wondering if that west hose was somehow the problem.
Is there a way to tell the difference beyond the brand name? Surely much of the hose would be made by some hose makers and there should be some way to ID the specifications.
 
quote:
Originally posted by pdecat

quote:
Beware, it may look like sanitation hose, BUT its spa hose....and WILL NOT clamp down tight, not to mention control the odor

Click to expand...

interesting, not long ago I bought a some 1" white hose from west marine for a air conditioning inlet. I couldn’t get it to tighten on the plastic hose barb and finally gooped it well with 5200, that worked. The plumbig guy at HD said you were supposed to use PVC glue and female PVC fittings but I wasnt going to go without clamps below the water line.
I reported the problem here and nobody had the same failure to seal experience now I am wondering if that west hose was somehow the problem.
Is there a way to tell the difference beyond the brand name? Surely much of the hose would be made by some hose makers and there should be some way to ID the specifications.

Click to expand...


"The plumbig guy at HD said you were supposed to use PVC glue and female PVC fittings"

Consider why he is working at Home Depot instead of as a plumber!

You don't glue hose to fittings, you clamp hose to fittings.

In your case, you either had the wrong size hose or the wrong size fittings. You might have had a metric fitting. You shouldn't have plastic fittings below the waterline either. Marelon if fine, "plastic" is not.
 
the hose and barb fitting were both 1". The hose was a very tight fit onto the barbs but still would not seal and actually leaked more when I tightened the clamps so I suspect that it was not compressable.
 
For anything 1" or 1 1/2", I would recommend Shields sanitation #101 hose. It comes in black and it's a very robust (wire bound) and smell free hose.

Most of the time your head water supply hoses are smaller than the discharge from the head/tank (sometimes they are 1"), and for that I would recommend an underwater rated exhaust/cooling hose. They bend much easier and they're quite a bit cheaper as well. I would recommend Shields #1350.
 
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