Sea Ray moisture issues

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Feb 7, 2007
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25149
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Has anyone here had any experience with moisture problems? I am considering purchasing a 2000 410 Sundancer. After doing some research, I understand 2001 & older Sea Rays were built with balsa wood to help reduce weight, unfortunately balsa wood is like a sponge with moisture, basicly causes affected areas to become "soft" over time.

Any honest feedback would be greatly appreciated.

Also, I have a 2002 360 Sundancer in excellent condition for sale. My boat is loaded with extras, including a bow thruster. $175k

Thank you,

Kirk
 
ALL BOATS USE BALSA TO A CERTAIN DEGREE...THE 410DA WAS NOT REALLY IN THE MOISTURE PROBLEM, BUT AS IN ANY BOAT,HAVE IT SURVEYED BY A REPUTABLE SURVEYOR..THE 410DA IS AN AWESOME BOAT WITH DIESELS IN IT...GOOD LUCK
 
It really depends on where the balsa is and who built the boat. There are some very expensive boats that use balsa below the water line and done properly, no problem. SR did have issues with balsa cored hulls on some of their over 40 foot older boats. I switched brands because of the issue and just did not want to take a chance on such an expensive boat. The key is to get a good survey and be meticulous with your maintenance. A friend of mine had issues with a 45 SDr that were eventually resolved with the factory, but it was not pleasant for him. He lost money on resale that was over and above what would be expected. My 30 foot SR W/Er turned out to be a problem for its second owner. My 37 SR express had no issues with structure at all. It had other small quality issues but gave me 11 years of reliable service.
 
yeah, well... all boats used balsa ... that's fine above the water line, and is usually ok under the water line as long as the builder / owner / mechanic havent' done anything stupid.

unfortunately, there are many horor stories of cored SR hulls failing...

with a picky surveyor familiar with core issues,a thorough inspection to make sure the boat has never hit bottom, has never been repaired and that nothing has been added on the inside of the hull, it may be ok. pay attention to things like transducer install, extra thurhulls, etc...
 
And you don't think the 360 you have for sale was built with balsa "to help reduce weight, unfortunately balsa wood is like a sponge with moisture, basicly causes affected areas to become "soft" over time"?
Actually, balsa is used not only for weight, but because it actually limits horizontal water migration if it does get wet! Balsa is widely used to core decks and often the sides, usually above but sometimes below the waterline. The problems, I believe, involved actually coring the bottom of the hull, which was stopped. I thought that went back further than 2001, but I'm not sure when.
 
the point of a core is not jsut weight, it's also that it makes a more rigid, less flexible structure... that said, it's risky to do that under the waterline.

i'm not sure i agree with bals limiting water migration. once you get water in a balsa core the damage will keep growing until it is fixed. it will not stop within x inches of the water intrusion.
 
I attended the annual Detroit boat show this past weekend, which I spent the bulk of my time at the Sea Ray exhibit. If I had more money than God, the new 48 Sundancer would look nice in my backyard.....maybe in my next lifetime.
Any rate, while I was there I spoke with one of the owners from the local Sea Ray dealership along with a representitive from the Sea Ray factory about moisture problems with Sea Ray boats. After a couple of minutes into the conversation on this issue, I sensed this was somewhat a sensitive issue. Both persons I spoke with did acknowledge that late 90's through 2001 vessels, 40 feet plus were subject to moisture problems, because of the balsa cores used in different areas on the boats. Now, this does NOT mean all Sea Ray boats manufactured during that time span over 40 feet long, have, or will have problems in the future. I was educated on their previous and current manufacturing process. Previously, balsa wood was used as a solid core wrapped with fiberglass to creat decks & other parts of the boat. This was fine until holes were drilled for running lights, anchors, bow rail stantions, bow hatches, etc. Now if any moisture from rain water, washing your boat, or whatever, seeps into an opening, a potential moisture problem in the balsa core may be created. In 2001 model year, balsa wood has been phased out from their manufacturing process, and completely eliminated today. As for models in the 2000 & 2001 years, they told me to contact customer service with the hull I.D. & they can inform you what materials the boat was made from.
As for Sea Ray boats, I am absolutely thrilled with my 2002 360 Sundancer. I came from an offshore boating environment where cruising at 50-60 mph was the norm, and racing around the lake for the day was about all we did. Don't get me wrong, drag racing at 80 plus mph was a heart racing thrill. Now that I have a wife, (3) kids and a dog, the cruiser boating is absolutely wonderful. My posting is not to bash Sea Ray boats by any means, I was only looking to get educated with their boats and wanting to eliminate any potential problems I may encounter with a used boat. As for my next boat, it will definately be no boat other than a bigger Sea Ray, probably a 2002 or newer though.

Thank you,

Kirk
 
Kirk,

I don't think there is a boat around that can not have water mitigation (is that proper use of the word?) issues...the biggest thing is to stay on top of it...any deck/hull joint, flybridge floor, cleat, poorly sealed thru hull, etc, when not maintained, over a period of time can have serious issues...so what I've done in the past is first research the boat, like you are, talk to former owners, get an idea of what the issue is-if there is one, do a close inspection of the boat (hours/days) then hire a surveyor... then make a decision. Are some boats more prone than others? I'm sure they are, but like Pascal said if someone didn't keep it up, then that would be a warning sign (paraphrasing here Pascal)...I always get a good idea by going right to the bilge, it's a good place to at least get a feel for how the boat has been treated.
 
"Previously, balsa wood was used as a solid core wrapped with fiberglass to creat decks & other parts of the boat. This was fine until holes were drilled for running lights, anchors, bow rail stantions, bow hatches, etc."

am I the only one who sees a big pile of BS there ? may i ask who is drilling holes for running lighs, windlasses, hatches and stanchions ? the builder !!!!

now since the whole marine industry has known for 20 or 30 years than installing something in a cored composite should be done in a spot with solid fiberglass, then why didn't they leave some solid FG in spots where they knew they'd be adding hardware? that would be a good indication of a quality built boat.

i have a feeling neither the dealer or the sea ray rep knew what they were talking about... maybe he was a marketing guy, not tech,... you know... the kind of guy how decided that a low bow woudl look better than one that won't be stuffed in 5 footers... oh i forgot, a 40+ boat shouldn't be taken out is 5 footers...
 
Good design IS very important. The better builders do plan ahead and stay with solid substrates where lights and other fittings will be placed. Having said that, even if you do buy one of the better brands, you need to check for newly added owner "improvements" to insure good designs have not been compromised by non thinking folks.
 
The Sea Ray 'coring'issue is not anything new. It only affected boats made in the Merritt Island and Sykes Creek facility (where the 360 and the 410 were made). Pascal is correct is was an issue of water getting in where holes were drilled into the glass. This was most apparent on side decks. Although there were some hull/transom issues. Any surveyor worth his salt knows all about this and where to look. And yes it is a sore subject. Sea Ray made good on the affected boats, settled the claims contingent upon confidentiality. No one can or should discuss the issue, not owners or employees. When I was at the plant a couple of months ago I really wanted to see how they 'sealed' the through hulls and any deck penetrations. However with the structured tour I did not get a look see.

You are looking at a 7 to 8 year old boat, get it surveyed.

Just my 2 cents, 175 for your 360 in todays market might not make for a quick sale.

Jim
 
I owned a 2000 410 EC. The problem as I understand it was an incomplete bond between the fiberglass and the balsa core. During an insurance survey we found a slight delamination on the foredeck between the windshield and the head hatch. SeaRay promptly repaired the damage. When we traded the boat in we found another spot between the STBD fishing rod holders that had delaminated. Again a call to SeaRay promptly took care of the issue to the surveyors satisfaction. Watch the surveyor. The sound delaminated fiberglass makes is very noticeable. Make sure he taps that little hammer over every square inch of the boat.
 
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