SHE'S ALL OURS! Now for some help.

These are great boats. I have an 89 too. Here are some tips: Seal behind the mirror at the forward berth to prevent water/dampness from the anchor locker. Great Stuff does well. Same by the hanging locker companionway. The old hinges break, made of cast metal. New ones are made of stamped metal. I bought several. The lights behind the dash will fail. Easy replacement is "rope light". Just silicon a piece on and light up the labels and logo if you like. A longer bow pulpit with a drop through anchor is nice. If you have the microwave, put some supports under the shelf. Those trim switches on the shifters don't last. Easy to replace. You will want to replace some of the wood screws with nut and bolt in the cabin, If you have trouble shifting, check the routing of the shift cable as there was a bulletin. check battery tray mounts. I replaced the aft bench seat with a B&M lounge seats. Looks good, light and room to store outboard in the base.
 
quote:
Originally posted by Andy65

Seal behind the mirror at the forward berth to prevent water/dampness from the anchor locker. Great Stuff does well. Same by the hanging locker companionway.

I'm not sure where you would seal? Mine is all painted like the bilge and there is a compartment between the mirror and the anchor?

The old hinges break, made of cast metal. New ones are made of stamped metal. I bought several.

I found replacements that worked at Lowe's that mounted right up. We also found originals are still available.

The lights behind the dash will fail. Easy replacement is "rope light". Just silicon a piece on and light up the labels and logo if you like.

I've mentioned this in other threads, but I'd like to see these rope lights and how they are wired/mounted.

A longer bow pulpit with a drop through anchor is nice.

I have a bow roller and don't need anymore length!

Those trim switches on the shifters don't last. Easy to replace.

The little snap ring that surrounds the two switches on mine keeps falling off. Some of the plastic is broken. Tell me more! I'm thinking some black electrical tape will suffice, but I don't want to look "cheap"!!

You will want to replace some of the wood screws with nut and bolt in the cabin.

Where are these??

If you have trouble shifting, check the routing of the shift cable as there was a bulletin.

Just had my starboard shift cable replaced. The original was still in it. I'd like to know more about this, but I don't have any problems shifting so it's probably been taken care of.

check battery tray mounts.

For what?

I replaced the aft bench seat with a B&M lounge seats. Looks good, light and room to store outboard in the base.

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I wish I had the European version with the sun pad that folds out. I've thought about a slight modification because it would be a GREAT place to sleep! Show us some pictures of what you are talking about!!

They are great boats with classic lines and great handling characteristics.

reflections.jpg
 
I found a gizmo inside the starboard storage area in the cockpit thats marked "Zinc Saver". Is this a factory item or something the PO added? Also, what is it? A galvanic isolator maybe?
 
Rope lights: Sea Ray originally used ribbon like light behind the dash to light up the switch identification lettering and logo. Just take out the ribbon, is just glued on, and the little transformer box attached to the ribbon at the end. Just connect the two wires to the rope light. No change to the switch or anything. The wires lead to the dash light switch and ground. I use the 1/2" 12 volt light. The lettering is transparent once the ribbon is removed. Just silicon the rope light directly behind the labels. Google 12v rope lights. Available at marine stores too. I also installed a light above the keys and dash light on the dash with a two way led tipped switch. Can see the lighted switch tip in the dark. Flip up for dash and down for dash and key.
Trim switch ring: There is a right way for them to go in. Make sure it is facing right. They usually stay. If not, glue it lightly. The rings are available. The plastic part on the shifter requires buying the whole lever. Have to be careful not to hit the trims when using the throttle. You could relocate the trim switches.

Wood screws in the cabin: They will find you. Usually on the floor after a rough ride. Any place I saw angle aluminum and a wood screw, I put a bolt an nut. Look at the bottoms of the dinette seat and cabinet base under the sink for angle and see if they are loose. The two long panels in the cockpit gunnel's also use the angle and get loose. A small bolt, washer and, if you want a finished look, bolt cover.

Battery ties: The batteries were originally held by typical rod and eye screwed into the plywood. Someone may have put in battery boxes by now. Regardless, make sure the batteries mounts are tight. Wood screws can loosen due to water getting in the screw holes causing rot in the hole or from overtighening.

Behind forward mirror: Stick your head in and look up. Stick your head and hands in the anchor locker and feel at the top aft part of the locker. You can see/feel a 1/4 to 1/2" gap covered by fabric from inside. The hanging locker in the companionway has same fabric covered gap.

Google B & M Molded Plastic Pontoon Corner Seats. I'll have to take some pictures. They had one that pulled out into lounge bed. Don't know if they still do. A sun pad between the rails on the foredeck is nice. Sea Ray made one for it.

The zinc saver sounds like something a PO added. There is a merc cathode system to save the zincs and protect the drive.
 
In the back by the transom or in the storage compartment below the arch or by the drivers seat? I think I saw mine on the Portside near the cabin door, but you have to get your head up there and look WAY up. I think it is the galvanic isolater. I'll check when I get home on Friday night.
 
Right Jim, I had my left and right mixed up when I typed that. The zinc saver is located in the cockpit on port side up behind that sliding panel. I thought it maybe a galvanic isolator. The PO wired in all kinds of TV amps and such and I wasn't sure if this was his work or factory.
 
quote:
Originally posted by Play Dough

OK. The plastic strip on the window is labeled on the package "COVER, WINDOW STR" #504654. That's all I have, but...I found the part on the website of the marina that I bought it from in Holland, Michigan. You can use the personal contact on the website to get the manufacturer info or buy it from these guys. I paid $3.95 each for those things so they're not cheap for what they are. The website is yachtbasinmarina.com/ then go to the "parts and service" page and then the "Sea Ray Parts" page. It's the last item on the top row of parts displayed. Let me know if you can't find it from these directions.

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Having trim and tilt problems, see my post in the engines forum please.
Thanks
 
OK, the electrical gremlins seem to have gotten into my dash lights, ie I have none. Are these set up like Christmas lights where if one goes out they all go out? Or do I likely have a bad ground or broken wire? I didn't have time to put a volt meter on the main switch to see if there was any power.

BTW, the tilt issue on the port engine is a bad UP solenoid. The thumb switches are OK so I'm thinking that the gray wire is bad. I'm going to run a jumper and see if the pumps respond. If they do, I'll just run new wires from the throttles to the trim pumps. Fishing the wire thru the control stick could be a challenge.
 
Instruments have individual lamps. If one goes out, the remaining lamps should stay lit. Are they out in both dim and bright switch positions?
 
The ground is connected in a daisy chain from one light to the next. When you get under there you will see it loop from gauge to gauge. If one is bad, everything downstream will be bad as well. Switch them on and troubleshoot with a light to see if it's the ground or if it's something on the switch/power side.

While I'm here, anybody know what the three position switch on the dash lights does? Is one of those a low power setting or something? My guage lights kick on, but when I switch it from off to down, nothing happens? Just wondering!

Headed out early in the morning and I can't WAIT to get home tonight! I might have to spend the night on the boat in the driveway! :-) And my wife called to tell me the Garmin is back from it's warranty repair. The only thing I have left to do is sort out the port fuel gauge/sender!
 
I think its a dim/bright switch. I'm going to check the grounds and put a volt meter on the breaker and switch to see if there is power.
 
Yes, it's a dim/bright switch. One side of the circuit should be wired to a potentiometer (sp?). I fried mine last year with too many lights on the circuit. Lesson learned.
 
In the head is a switch marked "SHOWER" when I turn it on, nothing happens. What is it supposed to do? Anybody else have this? I thought it ran the shower sump pump but nothing seems to happen.
 
I have the same switch and haven't figure it out either. I'm wondering if it energizes the circuit so that when the float lifts up, it turns on? Our 250 DA had a similar setup, but the switch was on the dash. I'll mess with that theory this weekend.
 
As far as I know it does nothing. I've always threatened to take a look and see if it was wired and "hot". I really don't have any use for it so it hasn't been important to find out. The mid cabin bilge pump is on regardless of the switch position in the head. I have a manual head so don't use the "head" switch either. I assumed that was for an electric head.
 
That "shower switch" runs the small bilge pump in the aft cabin.
 
Ditto, doesn't do anything on my boat. I'd like to switch the label to "TURBO BOOST" or "AFTERBURNER" just for laughs though!
 
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