shore water supply

S

sabrejocky

Member
Joined
Sep 11, 2003
RO Number
12195
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557
I was wondering if anyone can tell what it is called or which one to get?

If you leave your hose hooked up and want to prevent the boat from filling up with water in the event a line breaks.

Thanks
 
I thought it was called "turning off the water when you leave the boat"? There's no gizmo I'm aware of that will somehow turn off the dock-water automatically due to a leak.
 
Lowes or Home Depot sells a lawn timer. You can set it for gallons.

Ron
 
Lawn timers.. I tried it once, bought at HD, exploded in he middle of the first night and woke me up. So stay away from cheap pos made by Chinese commies
 
quote:
Originally posted by mixman

I thought it was called "turning off the water when you leave the boat"? There's no gizmo I'm aware of that will somehow turn off the dock-water automatically due to a leak.

Click to expand...


That was my thought as well....I just didn't want to be the first to say it.
There probably are gizmos...I just believe in keeping things simple.
 
I bought an inline shut-off valve that I put in between the hose and the boat inlet which is on the rear platform. I just switch it off and on each time I board or leave the boat. A lot more convenient than using the faucet valve for me.
 
I think you are looking for something like this, Google "flo logic".

Otherwise I use water timers. Never had one explode though. Mine must have been built by the non-commie Chinese. :-)
 
That may be more convenient but it leaves your hose pressurized all the time, sooner or later the hose will burst.

You can get in-line pressure regulators at any RV place which you can install between the faucet and the hose, they will reduce the pressure on the hose AND on the boat's plumbing.

I don't use shore water pressure. I use from the boat's tanks, and fill them when they get low. No worry about sinking the boat, and it keeps the tanks nice and fresh.
 
If you are looking for a water pressure regulator.......these work well and are adjustable.

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If you want a auto shut off valve in the event the supply line breaks.....check out " Flood Master " control systems. They will require a constant 110VAC supply to operate the valve.

IMHO......best to shut the water supply before leaving.
 
I have been using a Melnor Inc 101 Flowmeter Water Timer (Amazon - $13) for a few years now. I set it to 100 gallons. With day to day use it doesn' register the usage but I have blown my water hose leading to the boat a couple of times and with heavy volumn going through the device it works great and shuts off the water.

Good luck
Niles
 
What you really want is detection of a leak (water in bilge) to automatically shut the water off. Many devices exist for washing machines, water heaters, and whole house shutoffs:

http://tinyurl.com/watershutoff

Given all of the gadgets on boats, and all of the places that water could leak from, it is a wonder that these aren't built in as standard equipment.
 
I think an ordinary lawn-sprinkler valve could be made to work. They will work on 12v and the price is right. They require power to operate so if the power fails the valve will shut off.

A bilge switch is "normally off" but I've checked and the Attwood bilge switch (uses a microswitch, not mercury) at least will work if you mount it UPSIDE DOWN. With the float hanging down it will provide current to the sprinkler valve. Raising the float breaks the circuit and shuts off the water. If you carry a spare switch like I do you can check it with an ohmmeter.

I'd install the sprinkler valve OUTSIDE the boat but power it from the boat's 12v supply. Leaks before the valve won't go into the boat, and any failure in the 12v shuts off the water.

The price is right (under $50) and I'm pretty sure it'll work.
 
quote:
Originally posted by stmbtwle

I think an ordinary lawn-sprinkler valve could be made to work. They will work on 12v and the price is right. They require power to operate so if the power fails the valve will shut off.

A bilge switch is "normally off" but I've checked and the Attwood bilge switch (uses a microswitch, not mercury) at least will work if you mount it UPSIDE DOWN. With the float hanging down it will provide current to the sprinkler valve. Raising the float breaks the circuit and shuts off the water. If you carry a spare switch like I do you can check it with an ohmmeter.

I'd install the sprinkler valve OUTSIDE the boat but power it from the boat's 12v supply. Leaks before the valve won't go into the boat, and any failure in the 12v shuts off the water.

The price is right (under $50) and I'm pretty sure it'll work.

Click to expand...


Rube Gold·berg

adjective rüb-gôl(d)-berg
: attempting to accomplish something simple in a very complicated way, with an abundance of parts not intended for the job at hand.
 
quote:
Originally posted by stmbtwle

I think an ordinary lawn-sprinkler valve could be made to work. They will work on 12v and the price is right. They require power to operate so if the power fails the valve will shut off.

Click to expand...


.......unless the 12v battery is DEAD.
 
If the 12v battery is DEAD, the system will automatically shut off the water. It needs power to turn the water ON, not off. I just bought a valve at Lowes for about $11, hooked it up to the float switch, my workbench battery and the garden hose. With the switch UPSIDE DOWN as mentioned above and 12v connected, water flows. lifting the float cuts the power and the water shuts off. Disconnect the 12v and the water shuts off. Loose wire the water shuts off. Solenoid dies the water shuts off. All components off-the-shelf, and it's fail safe. what could be easier?

"Rube Goldberg"??? It has like, TWO parts (the float and the valve) and it WORKS. That doesn't sound "unnecessarily complex" to me. Don't believe me? build one yourself, it's cheap. I'm sure for a few hundred bucks you could find a ready made one. It's your money.

I'm sure you can buy pressure-sensing valves but what if you don't have a BIG leak, and the pressure drop isn't enough to trip the valve? Your boat sinks.

I don't particularly care. Saberjocky asked for a device that would shut the water off if he "forgets" to turn it off himself and he gets a leak. I tried to help.

Now what do I do with that sprinkler valve? I COULD install it on my own boat, but I never use shore water anyway so I don't really need it.
 
quote:
Originally posted by stmbtwle

If the 12v battery is DEAD, the system will automatically shut off the water. It needs power to turn the water ON, not off. I just bought a valve at Lowes for about $11, hooked it up to the float switch, my workbench battery and the garden hose. With the switch UPSIDE DOWN as mentioned above and 12v connected, water flows. lifting the float cuts the power and the water shuts off. Disconnect the 12v and the water shuts off. Loose wire the water shuts off. Solenoid dies the water shuts off. All components off-the-shelf, and it's fail safe. what could be easier?

Click to expand...


SO......the 12V switch is a type of electric magnetic switch ( holds it open ).... The switch uses voltage to do that....then it closes when the battery goes DEAD. If the Goldberg is installed at the power tower outside the boat..... you will also need some type of battery charger plugged in there....to keep the battery charged and the switch OPEN.
 
Sorry Double D, no magnetic switch. The switch is an ordinary float switch (NOT the old mercury type), bought it at Wal-mart for probably $20 a couple years ago. It's going to HAVE to be in the bilge of the boat. The first power source that came to mind was the boat's 12v system, though a 24v transformer would probably be better; plug it in anywhere. You don't need a battery, just a power supply, and yes the sprinkler valve will run off AC. The float switch I have is rated for up to 32 volts so that shouldn't be a problem either.

Now while putting the valve at the power post makes sense, that means you'll need a cable with a disconnect between the valve at the power post and the switch in the bilge. A wireless link would be nice but that's for you EE geeks to work out, and it'll likely cost more.

My thoughts would be to install the valve on the boat, probably right behind the existing water inlet and plumbed-in with something you trust. Alternatively out-of-sight in the cockpit, so if the shore hose does fail it will drain overboard. Then the wire to the bilge switch would be short and you wouldn't need a disconnect. The float switch I think I would mount on the underside of a bilge access panel, if there's room. It has to be upside-down.

Transformer: http://www.smarthome.com/3061/ELK-E...y-Duty-24V-AC-Power-Supply-Transformer/p.aspx

Bilge switch: http://www.wholesalemarine.com/attw...-4202-7.html?gclid=CPP5ws_8prsCFTJo7Aodsl0Abw

Valve: http://www.lowes.com/pd_289083-7498...lve&pl=1¤tURL=?Ntt=sprinkler+valve&facetInfo=

Even with the power supply it still comes in around $50. I'm sure there are other ways to do it.
 
My thought....if you use a float switch in the bilge....the damage is already done by the time the float switch senses water and shuts down the valve...and its only shutting the valve at the INLET connection ONBOARD. So if the hose fails before the inlet connection and the hose is onboard in the cockpit....what good is it ???....its a flawed system. You need to shut the water off at the feed or supply before the hose is onboard.
There are some valves ( self contained ) that shut down when it senses a rush of water thru the valve......I just can't recall the manufacturer. They operate on 110V and can be plugged into the power tower on the shore.

PS....I see you added the " drain overboard " statement in your original post.
HOW would you do THAT ??? If the hose is onboard in the cockpit and it ruptures at the weak point ( rubber to brass thread ) at the inlet ....how will that be drained OVERBOARD ???
 
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