Silverton no start on starboard engine.

[NORMinCONN]

Hi all hope the boating season has been kind. My wife and I made a trip to Block Island about 3 weeks ago. The day of the return we had a problem starting the Starboard engine. I Played around with the battery cables and I was able to get it started. long story short....back at the dock when I try and start the Starboard engine nothing happens (not even a click). Another item is the panel below does not power on. I have put two new batteries in and still nothing on the Starboard engine. Port is fine. If I turn the key to start the engine the breaker on the panel below will pop. I am thinking there is a short on the Helm or some where else. If anyone has any idea I would be grateful.

 

[jmeirhofer]

Swap ignition switches and see if you still pop the breaker. That will solve the problem for you or at least eliminate one source. If that does not help you need to trace the wires from the switch to the breaker and check for continuity to make sure you have not had a wire chaff through and is not grounding out somewhere. If that checks out swap breakers. Last thing I would check is the relay. If that still does not solve it call a marine electrician as it is likely something beyond the do it yourself realm.

 

[j-d]

Gas Engines? What Kind? Some have a "Slave Solenoid" that the triggers when you turn the Key to Start. Then the Slave triggers the actual Starter Solenoid. John mentioned checking a Relay, but you didn't mention one. Is there a Relay that you know of? Am I missing something?
When you changed Batteries, could you have crossed any Wires or left one off? I'm sure you have Battery Switches. Are they OK? Wiring disturbed on them?
Do you have or can you get a Wiring Diagram?

 

[jmeirhofer]

Good catch j-d, I should have said solenoid not relay. I doubt that is the issue though. My guess is their is a chaffed wire that is grounding out or a short in the ignition switch itself that is grounding out.

 

[jtybt15]

Run down the ground cable from the battery to the engine.

The starter also has grounds to the block.

There should also be a breaker with a RED button.
If the breaker popped, you probably do have something grounding on a high amp circuit...like the starter.

 

[NORMinCONN]

Thanks everyone for the replies. jmeirhofer I do think it is shorting out somewhere. I can turn the key to the point that the gauges with no problem. It is when I turn it to start that the breaker on the panel below pops. I think it is the ignition switch. Correct me if I am wrong but if it was at the starter the breaker on the panel would not pop. It would just not start. I do have all the cables after changing the battery connected correctly. This was happening before I changed the battery and the engine did start before the trip to Block Island. I think I will change the ignition switch and give you an update.

 

[Sandy]

Especially if the TO the ignition switch power lead breaker pops even if you turn the ign. sw. to Start with the shift control in F or R position, you might also check out your transmission's neutral safety start switch connections and switch for shorting to ground.

The yellow/red wire from the ignition switch "S"( solenoid) terminal runs to that N switch before continuing on to one of the small posts on the remote solenoid. That means no power in that primary start circuit should be getting past the neutral safety switch unless in is "closed" when the shift lever is in N.

 

[jtybt15]

The ground clamp on the battery is only HALF of the grounding system. All batteries have to ground to the same ground system which is the engine block. Nobody checks that groundm but is very important as a bad or corroded connection there creates high resistance on every circuit. Added resistance on any low amp system won't interfere with operation. resistance on high amp circuits can burn loose or corroded connections and pop breakers. A high amp circuit may be any electric motor or a whole panel if it's connected by a single cable.

 

[dwarren]

Sounds like ignition, you're correct, if it was the starter it just wouldn't "start". I agree with swapping ignition switches and seeing if that resolves. If not, you'll have to trace back to solenoid.