Spring Cleaning - need some advice/oxidation

F

footloose

Member
Joined
Dec 10, 2001
RO Number
6963
Messages
619
While my boat is out of the water next month I want to clean her up:

Hull sides are in decent shapre so I will probably use a 3M finesse it and then wax, add the Harley stickers I have and perhaps name her finally.

Top sides are hurting - very sunburned and oxidized. I read the "how to" buffing thread but what compounds/products would you recommend to specifically go after bad oxidizing? What product or the next step?

I have a 7 inch/2 speed Chicago orbital sander but it says it runs at 2800 and 3300 rpms. Seems wrong. What should I get for this project?

LAstly, the rub rain is 3-inch thick aluminum with some kind of anodized silver coating. Looks bad...cloudy. Any ideas?

Thanks!
 
First, you need a rotary buffer that is variable speed. I use 1200 -1500 rpm. If the oxidation is significant, I think you'd need more than that for the topsides. Something like Maguires heavy duty osidation remover. I'm trying Yachtbrite Buff Magic this year. With an orbital buffer, you are wasting time and money.
 
I recommend both. Start off by scrubbing the heck out of the topsides. Get it as clean as possible. I'm a believer in clean pads, but the early stages are going to sabotage that. (the chalkiness of oxidation gums up the pad and defeats the abrasives of the compound). If I were you, I'd get two double-sided pads for the rotary, so as one gets gunked up on both sides, you can soak it/clean it, grab the other one and keep on going.

Meguiars (or 3M) heavy oxidation remover is a good start. Both are cheaper than Buff Magic, and they make cleaning pads easier.

Once you make some progress, THEN bring on the Buff Magic with your choice of pad. (I like wool, others like foam)

If you still have patience, then graduate to Finesse It. (low RPM and keep it moving)

At that point it should be ready for graphics and then wax.

(this is all from a northerners experience. Hopefully you won't have to resort to wet-sanding or other extreme measures)
 
Foot,

I'm currently in the process of trying to restore the shine on a 20 year old Florida white gelcoat topside. I'm doing everything above the gunwal including he cockpit, helm and areas under the canvas that don't get touched when you hire somebody to "wax your boat". Dirt soaks into this chalk like spilled Cabernet and isn't easily removed.

First step - a heavy duty rubbing compound hand rubbed, clean or change rags frequenly. Removes chalk but doesn't necessarily shine.
Second step - Rubbing compound with a buffer. I'm putting moderate pressure on the buffer
Third Step - Buff Magic, light pressure on the buffer
Forth step - Pro Polish, hand rubbed
Fifth step - Wax, carnuba or Collinite 885. (I haven't gotten to this step yet, but I'm leaning toward Collinite 885.)

We'll see how long the shine lasts in the Florida Sun. But so far, I have places shining on this boat that haven't shown a reflection since I bought the boat 6 years ago.

I'm sure that colored gelcoat is going to require significantly more care in the rubbing compound stage to insure an even shine
 
Every where I turn on the web ,COLLINITE 885 is praised.That much effort,might as well finish it off right.I am a couple of weeks away from applying propolish and collinite,would you let us know how you like it.
Thanks Dave
 
I've gotta say, I'm not against a good workout, but I like to keep the manual labor to a minimum.

There will be plenty of opportunities to "detail" by hand - near fittings and in corners. When faced with a large flat surface that needs a lot of work, I don't see the point of doing it the hard and slow way...?
 
Paul, I noticed in your description of steps you are putting pressure down on the machine. While you may need to press on the machine to hold it against the vertical hull sides, if you are pressing down when doing the decks or cabin top you defeat the design of the tool. By pressing down you have the effect of putting the machine in a vise and the rpm's or orbits will change. You should just need to "guide" the machine over the surface and let the combination of pad & product do the work.

Since I am one who gets hired to "wax your boat," could you be specific as to what guys like me don't do? Seriously, this will help with my checklist when the job is done...thanks.
 
I use a Makita high speed buffer. For serious oxidation I use Tre-Wax heavy duty compound. Then polish it iwth FInesse-it II. On older boats I use the Collonite wax because it is oilier and seems to replenish the finish better. On newer boats, I have had good luck with Meguiars Flagship.

One of the keys to compounding and polishing is to keep the pad moving. You want it warm, but dont want any hotspots to develop.

Orbital buffers should be relegated to the car.
 
George,

I'm currently working on all gelcoat surfaces under the camper canvas. Thin strips of gelcoat, lots of corners and curves, around seats, around wood trim. I'm removing any doors, deckplates, trim or parts easily removed. Then I'm going to do all the non-skid. I paid the Marina's "boat wax and bottom paint guy" to do the hull. Actually I instructed the Marina to "paint the bottom and give me a wax job. I guess to them, a wax job doesn't include anyting above the gunwale. I'm sure that I could hire a professional detailer and specify every detail that I wanted polished, I can't imagine how much it would cost to do the job right, and how long it would last. My boat like many others in Florida never see cover. It's spent 20 years in the sun. Honestly, I see 3 boats getting painted to each one getting polished in the yard.
 
MardiGrasTexan - read the other thread, cn you describe in detail the wetsanding process? Curious on how much water is used. Thanks
 
For those of you with 20+ year old boats keep in mind that once the Gelcoat has been burned thru from oxidation-compounding ect,that compounding will be fruitless,if your hull can be brought to a shine but the topside is HEAVILY oxidized, first give a good wash with TSP prior to compounding,so your not removing the remaining gelcoat with any type of compound,because once its gone thats it,unless you repaint ($$$$$)Gelcoat is but a veneer not a solid surface.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top