Starter Motor *Update*

Then I must only have "stock" ones. 1/2" hex and maybe 1/2" tall at the hex. They work well enough but won't hold a tool from falling off while I maneuver to get a better grip.
 
I ordered the starter on a Monday night. I received delivery by Wednesday morning.
I had it installed on this Monday. Now the engine spins to life like it should.
Previously the motor was slow to turn like I had a dead battery. I had cleaned all contacts,
replaced the battery and still the motor was slow to come to life.
 
That's great your motor and its boss are happy again .
Did you take the old starter apart and clean everything up inside, lubing and checking or replacing brushes and neutralizing and painting over the case?
 
This is GOOD NEWS! If the old starter's the big heavy Delco-Remy, you can dismantle and reassemble easily. The Brushes are no challenge to put back in place because the motor end cap's a separate piece you can put back last. Drive, Solenoid, Brushes, Bushings are all available. BUT... The Field Windings and/or the Armature Windings, also the connections between Armature Windings and Comutator (copper segments Brushes run on) can fail. Field and Armature are major parts that affect the speed and power of the Starter. Check Brushes and Bushings. If Brushes are worn down toward the Screws that retain them, Starter's seen a LOT of use. If that's the case, the Rear Bushing could be worn out enough for Armature to rub inside Field. It's all magnetic in there, remember.
These D-R's usually can be salvaged, but WHY when High Torque is so inexpensive and performs better...?
Again, GLAD you have it running!
 
Doug, I'm curious is the replacement starter ignition protected? The 8.1L or 496 is a gas motor.
I assume it is but I'm simply asking in case the guy who bought my Mainship has problems with the 8.1L HO starters.
Bill
 
Bill, There's really no such thing as an ignition protected starter...for ford or gm at least. The only place producing spark is at the far end away from the bendix end. On ford the, the casing has cut-outs where the brushes are. They are covered to protect from water and gravel, on a car. The cover is just a large hose clamp. There's a cover that protects the mechanical linkage which may have a rubber gasket. GM doesn't have the cut-outs for the brushes so it's all sealed up. The solenoid will spark but it has a plastic cover that protects from water or dirt. These are all auto starters but are EXACTLY the same as marine. These may be the only marine parts that are cheaper than automotive.
 
The starter was listed as a "Marine " starter. I assume it is safe for
marine use with gas engines.
As far as rebuilding the old starter. At $50. for the new one. I am
not going to bother. I do plan on ordering another one to have as a
spare. $50. No shipping/ No Tax
 
Good idea. I have a spare I got for $20. It was brand new. The buyer either had a different mounting pattern or thought he got the wrong starter cuz it was so much lighter than the one that came off. One persons mistake was my gain. Same thing happened with my Holley carb. It was a Q-jet replacement but there's a difference in throttle linkage so He sold it VERY cheap. If it ain't plug 'n play, some people are lost. If you're willing to learn, this is the place to come to save money.
 
I agree some things are cheap enough it makes sense to buy new and the new brushless perm. mag starters are great, though they don't seem to be available for my port-side RH-rotation motor.

Some of us just can't help taking things apart to see what caused the problem with the old part. Last time I replaced and eventually took apart a failed boat starter I found a little rust(from coolant overflow long ago) was hanging up the only slightly worn -brushes in their slides. Tested fine when re-assembled. With a little internal cleaning up and about <$1 worth of lube and paint on hand I have what I believe to be a reliable used spare that looks like new.
 
Heh! heh! heh! you sure can tell who the tinkeres are.............
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top