The CABLE has to be fingertip-free. I went through this. Disconnected Cable at Actuator, Wheel turned easily, Cable must be good. WRONG! When I got a new cable and laid it on the garage floor with the old one (removed from boat at this point so no helm connected) I found I could "throw" the cable core end-to-end with my fingertips. I found the old one was so stiff I needed to grab it with work gloves to get it to move. With a new cable (this was in 2005) I was back to easy touch power steering. That lasted till 2013 when it got balky again. Another new cable and back to proper operation.
If your cable really IS free, be sure that the wrench flats on the inboard side of the part you connect the cable nut to are VERTICAL. If you assemble the cable with a torque on the casing that twists that little piece so the flats are NOT vertical, the hydraulic power aspect of your steering will not kick in. That little piece, Nut on Cable End, Flats on Inboard End, is the Shuttle Valve that controls the hydraulic pressure to assist your steering.
If your boat is 1991 and you haven't replaced Cable/Helm, first, you're lucky. But second, a helm from 1991 will have a rack that's square when viewed from the end. It's Teleflex "124" series and you may (I mean MIGHT) be able to get another cable with that rack style. But TF went to their "134" series which uses a rack with a rectangular-looking end. When I first did mine, I replaced the Helm as well as the Cable to get into their current "134" series. Now that it's about 10 years later, you should go to a "134" setup if you haven't before.