Sump Pump

T

Tetra

Member
Joined
Dec 17, 2001
RO Number
7001
Messages
32
My float switch continues to get hung up. The pump overflows in the bilge. The float switch is new. Any problem with direct connect to by-pass sump and dump out the same discharge by gravity?
 
what discharge are you talking about, shower ?

if so.. not a good idea to dump soap scum, hair, etc... in the bilge... it's going to brew and stink !

how does the pump overflow into the bilge ???? or do you meant that the pump doesn't start and the sump overflows ?
 
Is your shower drain above the water line? Probably not. I had nothing but problems with Attwood shower sump boxes. This year I replaced with a rule (under $100 from Boatfix) and no more problems.
 
Ken; I had the same problems with my Atwood, replaced it with a new Rule complete assembly.
 
I'm waiting for a new Atwood float switch for my sump box. If that doesn't fix it, it will be a Rule for me too.
 
I'll echo what the others have said, I prefer Rule over Attwood or Mayfair products, too. There's also an outfit that makes a float switch, called the "Sure-Bail"; they're excellent! But as far as I know, they only make float switches, nothing else.
 
After years of battling with the Attwood switches, I was forced to retro-fit a Rule switch in my Attwood sump when Attwood stopped producing that particular float switch. (I wasn't paying for the switches - the ONLY good thing about Attwood is their warranty)

I should've done it years ago - the Rules have worked perfectly.
 
The sump box overflows in bilge. The shower drain is above the water line. My thought was to connect the inline to the discharge from the box and let it flow out side of boat using gravity.
 
Ken, do you have the part or catalog page # in case I need to convert?
 
the question is how far above the waterline is your shower drain ?

make sure you take into accounts things like load, rolling, etc... I wouldn't connect the shower drain straight outside unless it's at least 18" above WL.

also, if you are reusing the existing discharge thruhull, it shoudl have a rising loop which will prevent flow...

When you have a non working sump, attwood for instance, you can remove the pump and switch and install just about anything in there... much cheaper than puying a new sump.
 
If $92.00 seems like a lot of money I have question Pascal, do you squeak when you walk?
 
lol that was kind of a shot out of nowhere!

Seriously though, the math DOES NOT add up - and that's AFTER Boatfix pricing. Paying $50-60 to REPLACE a plastic bucket makes no sense. (that's why I have a Rule switch inside of an Attwood sump)
 
Mounting the new guts in the old box is an issue. The plastic threaded mount points don't line up with Rule pumps & switches. I considered rigging it up with some 5200, etc. but after all the aggrivation $92 well spent. Plus the Rule box has a nice plastic screen filter.
I have been accused of "wasting" money on the boat. Imagine that!
 
You're right, they don't line up, but I used a larger screw - and just screwed in one side of the switches. It's been over a year without a hitch, and I have 2 sumps, so it cost me two SS screws, and saved $180.

To me, it was a lot less aggravating to mess with the screws than it would've been to change out both boxes and all the hoses...
 
I hope Pascal knows I was just kidding with him. The Rule is also 800gpm and as previously stated it has a hair trap/screen.
Regards Bill
 
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