Tanner and Venetian Shores Boat ramps opinions?

pstew96

pstew96

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Hi, Im about to buy a bunk trailer and I will be using one of these ramps, can anyone tell me if this is a bad idea as opposed to a roller model? I have a 5200lb Sea Ray. I'm about to make a deal on the trailer.
 
Tanner is fine, I prefer the left side but will use either. I've never used Venetian. During the season you need a launching permit. I like bunk trailers but rollers are easier to launch and haul out. Bunk trailers you have to submerge the axels while rollers not always but 5200lb boat you'll have to submerge the axels.
 
Tanner might be a bad idea, due to the fact that it is VERY steep. I go to Burns and love launching there. Its not steep, its nice and wide too...
 
Didn't we just determine rollers were better for Tanner?
 
http://www.boatered.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=150200
 
I would prefer rollers, but I'm keeping the boat on the trailer the whole winter and I understand bunks are better for the welfare of the boat. Bye the way, how would one bottom paint a boat on a bunk trailer?
 
quote:
Originally posted by pstew96

I would prefer rollers, but I'm keeping the boat on the trailer the whole winter and I understand bunks are better for the welfare of the boat. Bye the way, how would one bottom paint a boat on a bunk trailer?

Click to expand...


[soapbox]

As stated, if it's in in the spring and out in the fall, bunks are fine. If it's a daily trailer boat, you may regret your decision.

My Regal sat on rollers for the winter with no problems.

[/soapbox]

As for painting the bottom, put a 2x4 along the chine and jack up one side with a hydraulic jack. Paint it from the keel to the chine. LET IT DRY. You would be amazed at the adhesion bottom paint has to bunk carpet. Let it down and do the same to the other side. Paint the areas that were covered by the 2x4.

Make sure you read the instructions on the paint. Most ablatives are OK going in and out of the water. Most hard paints are not. When they are removed from the water after being wetted, their protection dies.
 
Ok, got my bunk trailer, gonna wait for high tide this week and trailer her home. Got a good price on the trailer. I only wonder about having to make any adjustments to the trailer for my style of boat...?? I guess I should bring a wrench...
 
I too forget the formula for tongue weight, but do remember that it is really important to have the proper tongue weight if you travel long distances. It has to do with control on the road. You also want to adjust the bunks so the weight of the boat is properly supported on the hull. Also, don't forget to tie the boat down to the trailer when you trailer the boat .
If you bought a used trailer, check the grease in the hubs. If you have a heavy boat, it is recommended to take the weight off the wheels during winter layup.
 
Good point on the wheels and tires Walter. I forgot about that.

A set of HF or NTE jackstands under each axle will suffice. You just need to get the tires an inch or so off the ground. Enough to allow them to spin freely and for the tires to expand and contract with the heat. Cover the tires with a cheap tarp to preclude UV damage. Check the pressure and adjust in the spring.

Trailer tire flat spots are a b!tch......DAMHIK!
 
keep in mind you want just a couple of inches of the stern to hang over the back of the trailer.

Bring a wrench and a couple of sockets too, WD 40 would be helpful too. Dont forget to ALWAYS hose down the EVERY part of the trailer once you take it out of the water. This will help a ton!
 
I only expect to pick it up at high tide then go about 8 miles with this and then store it indoors on the bunks for winter.
 
Before you take the boat down to the ramp, make sure you can loosen all the nuts on the u-bolts, unless it's a brand new trailer, I'd spray them with PB Blaster for a couple of days, first, to dissolve any rust. If they are old and rusty, plan on replacing some because it's easy to break them. I rebuilt my old 94 Load Rite and replaced every u-bolt, the axle, springs, spring mounts, added brakes, put on a longer tongue, and longer roller bars. Should have bought a new trailer! But learned a lot. I rinse the trailer in water after each load/launch but 2 x a year, I spray all the u bolts with Corrosion X, and the ones I replaced 6 years ago, have no rust on them still.
I prefer roller trailers, we have a short ramp here and at low tide you could never use a bunk trailer.
If its a used trailer as noted above carefully check the wheel bearings, make sure they are smooth running and have clean grease in them....
 
In boating you should expect the unexpected...You never know when you are going to have to retrieve the boat in low tide...
 
I am going to treat this new trailer like gold, I will rinse it after use and dry it then spray on the corrosion protection.
 
Ok, got the bunk trailor, picked up the boat at Tanner park at the lowest tide possible. Everything went pretty well I thought, tho very scary I admit! The only thing is the bunks need to be adjusted so she sits lower and I have to get a pattern going for the straps. Other than that it should be easy enough going forward with my transport plans every year. I got a really good price on the trailer, 6000lb aluminum for $2750.. Volantis will be wintering inside a warehouse!
 
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