Teak

D

Den P

Member
Joined
May 8, 2003
RO Number
11533
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53
This has probably been beat to death already, but I didn't see any references to it. I have to redo my teak rail trim and swim platform. Again..Could I use another product that would last a bit longer than teak oil? I generally power wash the wood, let it dry and apply a couple coats of teak oil. It looks good only for a short time. Can I use a wood sealer like Thompsons deck sealant or something? Any suggestions? Thanks! Den
 
Your teak will last the longest, no matter what you use, if you prep it right. The smoother the surface the longer any coating will last. Pressure washing is very hard on the wood and leaves a very rough surface.

Cetol is one of the easiest to use and longest lasting coatings. Just use 6 coats not the 3 the directions on the can recommend. But there are others as well.
 
Pressure washing is very bad for any wood! It "digs" out cellulose along the grain lines which leaves it rough and unprotected. I agree with Capt Bill's way. Do it correctly and you will only need to oil your exposed teak once a season----maybe twice the first season and once after that!
 
Liz, I think the lasting effects of oil will be dependant on the weather in the area it is used in. Back in the 1980's I took every piece of teak off my boat. Extensively cleaned it with the corrosive two part cleaners. Then sanded it down to 150 grit level. Cleaned it all with acetone. THEN, I started laying on the coats of oil. Saturated the teak with 8 > 10 coats of oil on all sides. Then put it back on the boat. That was the end of May & by the beginning of July, you would think I never took care of my teak. That was when I decided that anything was better than oil & I have been using anything but oil ever since.
Al
 
I agree, oil is alot of work and needs to be appiled often. I have alot of teak on my boat, Swim platform, bow pulpit, and all of the railings. They were all varnished when I got the boat. Last year, i sanded the swim platfor, and oiled it, by mid season I was done oiling it. It looked great. Over the winter I left it uncovered now I am back to square one, alos I sanded the bow pulpit. I have been oiling them about once every two weeks, and figure by mid summer, I can stop.

What I can say is he oiled teak looks much better then the varnished. (At least to me) That being said, when I oil them it akes about 10 minutes each time. I keep the oil, a brush and a cup in my dock box. When ever the mood strikes or I have 10 minutes I hit it with the oil.
 
Cetol. Is the easiest to use . Repairs are very easy, and you put on four coats. You will not have to touch it till next year. Sand it with fine paper, and coat. The UV protection is the best out of all the products. The color of the original Cetol is a bit too orange compared to oil, so then I would use the Cetol Light,
 
quote:
Originally posted by lobsta1

Liz, I think the lasting effects of oil will be dependant on the weather in the area it is used in.
Click to expand...


Well, my experience is in central California Delta.

Acetone? I don't think that is recommended for teak, is it?

nph has an excellent point: oiling can be done on the spur of the moment. Varnishing needs specific weather conditions such as no wind, temps not too cold, low humidity, etc.
 
My preference is Semco. Prepped right with many first coats, you'll never have to "re-do" the teak again, just one or two top coats a season from there on. Some people don't like the look (dull) but its non skid properties and low maintenance make it the way to go for me.
 
"Acetone? I don't think that is recommended for teak, is it?"

No problem. Used all the time to prep teak.
 
You can't just keep applying teak oil. Once it gets some moisture in it, the black mold will get quite happy living off all that nice oil you gave them to live off of. At that point, you need to strip it before applying more. Oiled external teak can look GREAT with teak oil, but it is THE highest maintenance option possible. For most people, its not what they were expecting.
 
I used to be a mate on a 63' sportfisherman that was all teak in the cockpit. The captain had a really simple and practical way of kiiepng the teak looking good. Once a year it got stripped with Tip Top Teak crystals , and then sanded and three coats of oil. One coat a day for three days. After a month or better depending how much the boat was used and how much salt water got splashed on it we would scrub the decks with Tide Detergent ( powder form ) and when dry apply a couple coats of oil. Was very effective method and not that difficult to do.
 
Den.... I had the same problem. This year I used a product called snappy-teak-nu. Its a two part acid solution, no no dont worry it wont eat your skin off. Just read the directions. I just put Part 1 on,,,, it'll turn the wood black. Its the mold coming to the surface..... then put part 2 on....Then rince. Its the easiest product I have ever used. Then I teak oiled my platform "And" then applied 3 coat of cetol light.

Beats the H%$L out of doing it every month. good luck
vernon
 
There is a new cetol out now called " Natural Teak " is probably the best color yet out of all of them.
 
How about using a super fine steel wool to prep the teak?

James
 
Steel wool on a boat is a major mistake. Looking for rust are ya? Wet some steel wool, set it out and watch it turn to rust.

Stainless steel wool or bronze wool only.

Sandpaper works to smooth teak.
 
Read somewhere about "Teak Guard"

I started to use it and like it much better than oil.
 
I am curious toknow if anyone had any experience with Bristol Finish?

It is a two part product that is advertised in Passage Maker and Soundings.

Cetol has been my choice for exterior. Varnish for interior.

Acetone..... works as a prep and cleaner. What is the other product that is used to raise the grain of the wood prior to finishing?
 
"What is the other product that is used to raise the grain of the wood prior to finishing?"

Water.

--

Acetone is used when the wood is oily ( Teak ) to improve coating adhesion. It does not raise the grain in any appreciable way.
 
KD I believe you are thinking about the two part cleaner called " Teka " or its sister cleaner " Snappy Nu " both are excellent cleaners, but biggest negative trait is it actually takes eats the teak up.
 
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