Note on Centerpin crimp PL-259 connectors:
I firmly believe the average ( non-electronics "pro") is waaay more likely to have better, more reliable success installing the easy gold-plated "Centerpin" Pl-259 connectors ( & the 1st time), than he or she would by trying to carefully cut away specific lengths of layers of coax jacket ,shielding, insulation and center conductor, then trying to properly solder greatly varying masses of metal with different heat-sink qualities without melting insulation , or getting insufficient conductive bond or ending up with excess solder in the way or shorting out the center conductor with the shield.
BUT! Two really simple steps will make all the difference for success and long usable life when installing the Centerpins:
1st - after simply cutting the end of the coax square , just apply a light application of silicone grease on the newly cut end and on the coax jacket on the area to be covered up by the completed connector and slide on the initial pieces out of the way on the coax .
The dielectric grease pretty much eliminates chance of conductor corrosion, but does not impair desired conductance
2nd- And this is so simple but critical:
Instead of crimping down hard on the 1st opposing pair of "teeth" on the main section of the connector as many people are prone to do, just use your pliers to only lightly crimp in each pair of teeth a little bit at a time , going around and around lightly crimping each pair a little more a couple/few times, so all the teeth are in just the same amount and not too much or little ( the teeth base legs will lay about flat parallel to the coax jacket without compressing it.)
Screw everything together , Done! Enjoy!
The idea is to only penetrate the shield braid, NOT the center connector, and also not set the 1st pair so deep they get in the way of the next ones which then stick up too high , preventing complete assembly clearance. The teeth are just the right length to penetrate only the braid shield if the teeth base leg is not squeezed into the coax at an angle down at the sharp tooth end. If you picture that , it is a snap to do it right.
It only takes a minute or 2 to install one of the Centerpin connectors correctly so it will work well and for a very long time.
Since my VHF antenna has to be completely removed for winter shrink-wrapping , I have a PL259/258/259 "splice" connection within maybe 10" of the antenna base , and use 2 of the Centerpins there and one at the radio black box behind the lower station dash. All 3 are Centerpins that have been on there for maybe 10-15+ years and radio works very well and VSWR is still ~ 1.5:1 .
The splice connection is in the SW spray area , so I do wrap the whole "splice" with stretched overlapping turns of white self-amalgamating tape ( like Rescue Tape) each spring commissioning. The tape seals but doesn't stick to anything but itself so it's easy to cut away each layup.
I really like the gold Centerpins! Thank you Shakespeare!
I firmly believe the average ( non-electronics "pro") is waaay more likely to have better, more reliable success installing the easy gold-plated "Centerpin" Pl-259 connectors ( & the 1st time), than he or she would by trying to carefully cut away specific lengths of layers of coax jacket ,shielding, insulation and center conductor, then trying to properly solder greatly varying masses of metal with different heat-sink qualities without melting insulation , or getting insufficient conductive bond or ending up with excess solder in the way or shorting out the center conductor with the shield.
BUT! Two really simple steps will make all the difference for success and long usable life when installing the Centerpins:
1st - after simply cutting the end of the coax square , just apply a light application of silicone grease on the newly cut end and on the coax jacket on the area to be covered up by the completed connector and slide on the initial pieces out of the way on the coax .
The dielectric grease pretty much eliminates chance of conductor corrosion, but does not impair desired conductance
2nd- And this is so simple but critical:
Instead of crimping down hard on the 1st opposing pair of "teeth" on the main section of the connector as many people are prone to do, just use your pliers to only lightly crimp in each pair of teeth a little bit at a time , going around and around lightly crimping each pair a little more a couple/few times, so all the teeth are in just the same amount and not too much or little ( the teeth base legs will lay about flat parallel to the coax jacket without compressing it.)
Screw everything together , Done! Enjoy!
The idea is to only penetrate the shield braid, NOT the center connector, and also not set the 1st pair so deep they get in the way of the next ones which then stick up too high , preventing complete assembly clearance. The teeth are just the right length to penetrate only the braid shield if the teeth base leg is not squeezed into the coax at an angle down at the sharp tooth end. If you picture that , it is a snap to do it right.
It only takes a minute or 2 to install one of the Centerpin connectors correctly so it will work well and for a very long time.
Since my VHF antenna has to be completely removed for winter shrink-wrapping , I have a PL259/258/259 "splice" connection within maybe 10" of the antenna base , and use 2 of the Centerpins there and one at the radio black box behind the lower station dash. All 3 are Centerpins that have been on there for maybe 10-15+ years and radio works very well and VSWR is still ~ 1.5:1 .
The splice connection is in the SW spray area , so I do wrap the whole "splice" with stretched overlapping turns of white self-amalgamating tape ( like Rescue Tape) each spring commissioning. The tape seals but doesn't stick to anything but itself so it's easy to cut away each layup.
I really like the gold Centerpins! Thank you Shakespeare!