Volvo Outdrive knocking, engine stalling

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Chriznat20

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I had a previous thread on here re: this. My 99 Four Winns has the volvo duo-prop outdrive and 5.7 engine with ~700 hrs. This past winter, I had my mechanic replace my u-joints, gimbal bearing, and bellows. I supplied the parts. U-joints #18-2174,and gimbal #18-2100. I bought the "heavy duty" u-joints. If any of this information is relevant, I dont know yet...

Launched the boat a few weeks ago, outdrive is knocking when I turn and vibrating. Boat comes back out, goes back to boat mechanic. He calls me yesterday and tells me there is something wrong with the steering, but its not a do-or-die issue and he doesnt have the part anyway (has to order from volvo penta) so take the boat and enjoy.

Get the boat out on the lake, its vibrating on turns, more like grumbling, pull over to help a stranded boater (ironically had the same exact boat as me-model, engine and everything!). When I turn the wheel real sharp this time to tie up and help the boater, I get the usual rapid knock-knock-knock, then BAM clang clang clang, engine stalls. It happened very quickly.

So first thing I think is my u-joint broke and the shaft is flopping around. I gave it a few minutes, straightened the wheel out and cranked the boat, figuring if it WAS a shaft going apes*it in the bellows and transom, I'd be able to hear it when Im cranking the engine. Well the engine started and to my dismay, now its quiet. Well, sort of. See, now it intermittantly clangs and knocks real loud when the wheel is straight.... Something gave, Im pulling the boat out today, have to get a tow to the ramp at the marina.

From the description I gave, does that sound like my (brand new) u-joints took a dive? Does anybody out there with infinite wisdom agree that sierra u-joint 18-2174 is the correct cross reference for a 99 Volvo DP-SM outdrive? Ive checked and double checked again and it appears to be the correct part #....
 
It crosses over. Did you replace both joints? The DP-SM has 2 u-joints. Let us know the outcome. Post pictures of the findings.

Ken
 
CORRECTION!!!!!
18-2104 is the correct u-joint. I found differing information at another source.

Ken
 
quote:
Originally posted by muddkatt

CORRECTION!!!!!
18-2104 is the correct u-joint. I found differing information at another source.

Ken

Click to expand...


Ken, I'd like for you to google exactly this:

18-2174 and 3850812 (according to VP website, the part # for the actual u-joint). You will find that they cross reference and the 18-2174 is supposed to be the "heavy duty" u -joint. I dont know, something went wrong. I suppose as a friend suggested, I perhaps should've bought OEM VP u-joints.

Also can you cite your source where you found conflicting information? I need to get this straightened out for tomorrow when my mechanic and I meet at the boat....

Both u-joints were replaced. And the gimbal bearing. THANK GOD for boatus unlimited towing, otherwise I would've paid $555 for my tow back to port. Lake St. Clair was very crabby today and had 2-4'ers which doesnt sound bad, if they are rollers, but on Lake St. Clair (locals call it "Lake St. Chop" because it can get reallly choppy), 2-4' can be a PITA. The tow boat guy said he was like a cork in a bathtub out there, he suggested that I didnt go on the tow ride over...
 
BTW, here is the copy and paste from iboats, which is where I bought the part. There is no price, I didnt want to violate forum rules or advertise for a competing site:
Sierra 18-2174 U-Joint
Replaces OEM part #
MERCURY MARINE 75835T1
MERCURY MARINE 75832T 1
MERCURY MARINE 75832A3
MERCURY MARINE 758321
OMC 915717
OMC 3850812
VOLVO 3850812
For: OMC Cobra and King Cobra Drives (1990 & above), and Mercruiser ALPHA I Units S/N B418819 & above, ALPHA I SS & BRAVO.
Includes straight grease fitting and 90 degree fitting (Rockwell)
For: Volvo 3.0L GS, GL, 4.3L GL, GS, GI, 5.0L GL, GI, 5.7L GL, GI, 5.8 FL, FI, FSI

Thats exactly what I bought. My engine is listed and OEM u-joint part # was too.
 
That other seller isn't known for its technical expertise. I wonder if their listing was accurate. I/O U-Joints look like automotive ones, but the automotive ones rarely have to operate at the extreme angles that they do in an I/O.
When the joints were making all the noise, was the drive in a normal running trim or was it raised as for shallow water? I can easily see where steering and trimming angle could add up to conflict and noise.
 
quote:
Originally posted by j-d

That other seller isn't known for its technical expertise. I wonder if their listing was accurate. I/O U-Joints look like automotive ones, but the automotive ones rarely have to operate at the extreme angles that they do in an I/O.
When the joints were making all the noise, was the drive in a normal running trim or was it raised as for shallow water? I can easily see where steering and trimming angle could add up to conflict and noise.

Click to expand...


The drive was all the way down, I was not going to trim up at all with it knocking when all the way down.
 
Did they grease the new u-joints after installation? Did they align the engine?

Doug
 
UPDATE: It ruined the gimbal assembly... not the actual gimbal bearing but the assembly thats on the transom and houses the gimbal bearing, chewed it right up and didnt chew up the bellows to pieces but on the inside did cut them up pretty bad. Also cracked the upper unit of the outdrive!! It was leaking gear oil. The mechanic admitted blame and is going to repair everything.

I did discover that although the boat was at the mechanic all last week, it was never hoisted out to check the outdrive, after I complained about the NEW u-joints knocking. He went to the boat and turned the wheel and acknowledged it knocked. Its ok, we all make mistakes, Im not going to bash the mechanic. Hes got several recommendations and hundreds of customers around here, plus I feel hes going to make good on this and it will be water under the bridge.

Im glad that I didnt sink. And im REALLY glad I bought Boat US's unlimited towing this past winter, otherwise I'd have been out $600 in towing charges.
 
Thats not the kind of news I like to hear. I hope the mechanic takes care of it. I would like to know the reason for the failure. Was it improper installation or wrong part?

Ken
 
He said he will find out but the bottom line is if he would've fixed this while it sat at the marina ALL last week, this wouldnt have happened as it was knocking bad before I brought it back to him. It wasnt even hoisted out, just an audible observation was performed. Im sure it would've been caught if the outdrive was removed, and "whatever reason" they failed, it would've been immediately remedied. Now its an expensive ugly mess.
 
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