So I recently changed out my rode to include 48' of chain. Previously I only had 30' of chain. Everything works great except I've noticed that somehow the clutch on the windlass now seems to loosen easier and needs to be tighted before the last 10' or so of chain and the anchor come all the way up. Not a big issue but a little bothersome. Any idea why this would be happening just due to increasing the chain by 18'?? Other difference i have noticed is that the chain is coming up very much coating in mud for most of the length so I can only guess that increased 18' is giving the chain enough weight to stay slack on the bottom and the increased weight of the mud is resulting in windlass working harder to pull everything up. SO the question is how to get the windlass (maxwell 800 or 8000- can't remember which it was) from loosening the clutch.
windlass issue
- Thread starter Woodsong
- Start date
If you are in deep enough water, perhaps once the anchor is above the bottom you could stop lift and back the boat down to flush the mud? Unless your anchorage is deeper than 30' , the anchor & chain rode max. hanging weight should not have changed, so it does sound like the increased slack picking up more mud weight would likely be the difference in min. clutch pre-set to prevent slipping . I believe the "800" in the model code refers to the max. 800 lbs. pull of your windlass, so I'd think it is sized plenty OK for your use. If you can't get the clutch adjusted so it won't prevent slip with normal lift conditions there must be some internal issues to deal ( maybe the clutch tensioner was reinstalled incorrectly during last maintenance?).
Perhaps clean the friction surfaces (upper & lower sets) of grease (or excess if some is necessary? Once it slips it's easier to keep on slipping. Obviously there is a fine line between adjusting the clutch so it won't slip under normal load , but stil slip to keep gears and shafts from breaking or motor burning out if the anchor gets hung up. Perhaps try a dab of weak threadlocker on clutch tensioning device threads to reduce chance of backing off if that is happening? You could always check with Vetus/Maxwell for mfgr advice :
http://www.maxwellmarine.com/find_enquiry.php
Maxwell America, LLC
2907 South Croddy Way
Santa Ana
California 92704-6302
UNITED STATES OF AMERICA
Phone: +1 714 689 2900
Fax: +1 714 689 2910
Perhaps clean the friction surfaces (upper & lower sets) of grease (or excess if some is necessary? Once it slips it's easier to keep on slipping. Obviously there is a fine line between adjusting the clutch so it won't slip under normal load , but stil slip to keep gears and shafts from breaking or motor burning out if the anchor gets hung up. Perhaps try a dab of weak threadlocker on clutch tensioning device threads to reduce chance of backing off if that is happening? You could always check with Vetus/Maxwell for mfgr advice :
http://www.maxwellmarine.com/find_enquiry.php
Maxwell America, LLC
2907 South Croddy Way
Santa Ana
California 92704-6302
UNITED STATES OF AMERICA
Phone: +1 714 689 2900
Fax: +1 714 689 2910
Haha- Too true SaltyCam! I switched everything out though actually b/c somehow the original rode had developed a spot on the rope portion of the rode that was ragged and down to about 1/4 of the strands which was limiting me on how much rode I could put out. So...I got a good replacement rode but it only had 18' of chain...less than I wanted. So I cut off the chain from the old rode and spliced the chains together to give me the 48' chain.
Sandy, as far as depth of our anchorages...we are usually in 30-50' of water believe it or not. All the coves on our lake are pretty darn deep! Monday I fixed the issue by tightening down the clutch just a hair after I set the anchor. Hours later when we left everything came up as normal without issue. Good idea to call the manufacturer. I guess that's what I would have done pre-boating forum existance days!
Sandy, as far as depth of our anchorages...we are usually in 30-50' of water believe it or not. All the coves on our lake are pretty darn deep! Monday I fixed the issue by tightening down the clutch just a hair after I set the anchor. Hours later when we left everything came up as normal without issue. Good idea to call the manufacturer. I guess that's what I would have done pre-boating forum existance days!
wood -- if you have the maxwell freedom 800 that is the same as mine. i have become very intimate with mine on more then one occasion.
your question of the clutch loosening has me baffled other then thinking it is not tight enough from the start or there is a washer that you are missing. if i remember right when you lift out the piece of the windlass that you use to tighten the clutch there should be a funny looking washer that has a tab that goes in the key way....do you have one?
your question of the clutch loosening has me baffled other then thinking it is not tight enough from the start or there is a washer that you are missing. if i remember right when you lift out the piece of the windlass that you use to tighten the clutch there should be a funny looking washer that has a tab that goes in the key way....do you have one?
Ted- That would require a bigger boat and windlass! Funny you should mention that. Next to that old whaler's anchor & dory is now a large, beautiful, black fiberglass scupture (by Ovid Ward) of the back & tail of a whale set into the grass. Engraved bricks inset in the low wall in front were sold to help fund the beautification of the spot. Mine has the name "Luke A.Fluke" on it. [
aperbag]I've found 2 of those huge old anchors and one 1000lb navy anchor while diving locally over the years.
Since you've bailed to Lanier, I guess it's safe to say I have a few hundred recently-raked delicious littlenecks hanging from a dock in the Lagoon.
quote:
Originally posted by Sandy
Ted- That would require a bigger boat and windlass! Funny you should mention that. Next to that old whaler's anchor & dory is now a large, beautiful, black fiberglass scupture (by Ovid Ward) of the back & tail of a whale set into the grass. Engraved bricks inset in the low wall in front were sold to help fund the beautification of the spot. Mine has the name "Luke A.Fluke" on it. [
I've found 2 of those huge old anchors and one 1000lb navy anchor while diving locally over the years.
Since you've bailed to Lanier, I guess it's safe to say I have a few hundred recently-raked delicious littlenecks hanging from a dock in the Lagoon.
Where on the lagoon - we used to be about half way up on the OB side, just past the Phillips' red ranch...my folks sold it in '81...ouch.
Thought there were more quahogs than littlenects there???
I locally bought one of the splice links exactly like Adru posted a pic of in this thread where I asked how to do it:
http://www.boatered.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=126685
Also, I don't have a freshwater washdown rb2@gr5t my bow but I've been toying this last week with installing one myself- just gotta see what it will take to snake a water line from the engine room to the bow- think I can do it though.
Thanks.
Mine is plumbed kind of dumb (in my opinion)so I'm planning on changing it.
From the seacock for the head, they added a "T" valve. One way feeds the head, the other feeds the washdown pump. So, to use the pump, you go to the head compartment, open a door, get down on your knees, and flip the handle. Now you get up, go to the electrical panel, and flip the breaker for the pump to "On". Then you go to the bow, pull the hose out, and wash the anchor and chain as you pull it up (with a manual windlass (which I am replacing). After use, you have to put everything back as it was.
I'm planning on eliminating the "T" valve, replacing it with a "T" fitting. This should allow me to leave the pump breaker on whenever the seacock is open and just walk to the bow, pull out the hose, and squeeze the nozle to use the washdown.
My original plan called for check valves, but people here advised that they weren't necessary.