My existing system has a holding tank with its bottom output hole connected to a T. Off of the tee is a hose to the deck pumpout fitting and the other fitting on the T has another hose going to the Jabsco macerator pump which is in turn connected to a sea cock for thru-hull (bottom of boat)dumping of the waste. I always operate the boat with the thruhull closed. Is there be any need to replace that T with a Y valve?
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"Y" valve or T
- Thread starter New2Me34C
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- Jun 4, 2001
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You are better off with a valve, this way you will have the ability to isolate either side of the y valve if you have any trouble. I hate the way Silverton did this, I have a 1997 41C and they did the same.
No it's not neccesary but if you have the chance to change it you will have a y valve that can be locked and will always be better than just a plain T.
No it's not neccesary but if you have the chance to change it you will have a y valve that can be locked and will always be better than just a plain T.
j-d, I suppose I could remove the handle on the valve, but I always thought that having the valve closed, the breaker at the power panel turned off, and also a switch in the bilge area near the macerator pump would satisfy the coasties. Have yet to be boarded or otherwise inspected.
Robyns, I agree that it would be better. Maybe I will put one in while I am installing a larger tank.
Thanks for the replies
Robyns, I agree that it would be better. Maybe I will put one in while I am installing a larger tank.
Thanks for the replies
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Mickey,
If you are going to install a new tank, I would definitely put a Y valve in, no question.
If you are going to install a new tank, I would definitely put a Y valve in, no question.
quote:
Originally posted by Robyns Nest
Mickey,
If you are going to install a new tank, I would definitely put a Y valve in, no question.
Absolutely. However if not, no need. My Regal was similar with the "T" setup and I had no problems at boarding with the valve closed and a fluorescent yellow zip tie holding it in place.
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The point I am trying to make about the valve is that if you have to service the hoses that go to the tank (y valve), you have a way of isolating them so you will make much less of a mess when you need to work on it. The T really doesn't allow for this.
I ordered and received the Jabsco Y valve. Last year I replaced the macerator and this year I will be replacing the tank and most of the hoses, so I may as well replace the T with a Y valve at the same time...hey what's another $50 or so...after all it is a boat.
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Yep, It's a big black hole.....
Have fun taking out the holding tank, pick a cold day, the nasty smell isn't as bad when it's cold !!!
Jonathan
Have fun taking out the holding tank, pick a cold day, the nasty smell isn't as bad when it's cold !!!
Jonathan
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If you put a good-sized dab of Vicks Vaporub on your upper lip, it'll help with the "aroma." That's what the military guys do when they have to gather up the bodies after a battle.
Hopefully when you remove your old holding tank you don't have what I did a leaking old tank! The bilge had to be cleaned and sanitized then I painted the area. I had an old aluminum holding tank that is now replaced with a larger Poly tank. All my hoses were replaced it really cleaned up the musty odor the boat used to have. Good luck, regards. Bill
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Bill, with any luck at all the poly tank will last you the rest of your life. Aluminum tanks are generally only good for 7 or 8 years. The urine corrodes the devil out of them. Some time, in a public bathroom, take a look at the metal dividers between the urinals. They're usuallly well-corroded - and that's just from the "spray."
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I can not believe that any boat builder would use an aluminum tank for holding waste.
What the hell are they thinking!!!!
What the hell are they thinking!!!!
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quote:
Originally posted by Robyns Nest
I can not believe that any boat builder would use an aluminum tank for holding waste.
What the hell are they thinking!!!!
It's called built in obsolescence.
Well the latest status is I enlarged the floor hatch opening and removed the old 18 gal tank ..the odor was not that bad. The new 40 gallon tank is installed along with the new Y valve connected to the deck pumpout and macerator pump. The 1-1/2" hose connection from the Y valve to the bottom of the tank may be a problem as it will have be a really tight "S" or double "L" bend. The tank is offset from the Y valve by about 7" but only about 12" away. I don't know if the sanitation hose will make such a tight (small radius) bend so I am thinking of installing a 90 degree elbow fitting at the tank and then the hose will just need to make a L shaped turn. Any problems with using a 90 degree elbow instead of the straight fitting? Is there a trick, such as heat, to bending this heavy duty hose?
Also should there be a loop in the 1-1/2" hose from the toilet to the top of the tank to form sort of a trap for some standing water and odor control, or should it be a downhill run all the way and let the joker valve and pump assembly block the odor?
Open to suggestions and comments.
Thanks,
Also should there be a loop in the 1-1/2" hose from the toilet to the top of the tank to form sort of a trap for some standing water and odor control, or should it be a downhill run all the way and let the joker valve and pump assembly block the odor?
Open to suggestions and comments.
Thanks,
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No loop from the head to the tank. Best if you can get one straight downhill run. If you have a loop, sediment, poo and urine will collect in the low spot and give you trouble down the road for sure.
While adding 90's in any line is not the preferred way to go, if that's the only way to get it to work then what other choice do you have? If you add only one 90 I can't imagine it being a deal breaker.
Are you using the good Sealand PVC hose? I would. The hose is pretty flexible, give it a try with a good hairdryer. When slipping the hose onto the fittings you can use a hair dryer/heat gun on low or a pot of boiling water. Be careful with the hot water, but dipping the hose into the hot water really softens it up and the hose will slide onto the fittings much easier and then shrink just right.
While adding 90's in any line is not the preferred way to go, if that's the only way to get it to work then what other choice do you have? If you add only one 90 I can't imagine it being a deal breaker.
Are you using the good Sealand PVC hose? I would. The hose is pretty flexible, give it a try with a good hairdryer. When slipping the hose onto the fittings you can use a hair dryer/heat gun on low or a pot of boiling water. Be careful with the hot water, but dipping the hose into the hot water really softens it up and the hose will slide onto the fittings much easier and then shrink just right.
R N,
I got the hose at WM and was told over the phone that it was the Sealand OdorSafe sanitation hose but when I got there it was Shields white sanitation hose. He took a buck off per foot because of the mis-information. I will try the hot water or hair dryer trick.
thanks for the reply,
I got the hose at WM and was told over the phone that it was the Sealand OdorSafe sanitation hose but when I got there it was Shields white sanitation hose. He took a buck off per foot because of the mis-information. I will try the hot water or hair dryer trick.
thanks for the reply,