454 mercruiser running hot "update"
- Thread starter D. Andrews
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Just got back to the marina from pulling all the kids around on a tube and same thing 200 no more. Come off plane and idel and she goes to 170. Think I will probably pull the risers before I leave tomarow and give them a clr treatment next......D.....
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Pulled the risers, found some more white rock setteled in the bottm of them on top of the gaskets, but no apperent obstruction. BUT, good thing I did, found pitting from the water jacket to the exaust on one side and some rust in the exaust manafold, so off to the surface grinder that one goes. Dont think it was enough to cause the problem though.
Scoops on the out drive looked good, no obstructions. Currently dont have a through hull pick up but will look into that, sounds like a good idea.
Next weird problem, could be related not sure. Did it twice yesterday, left marina and went a couple miles up river. Threw tube in the water and pulled a bunch a folks around, no issue getting up on plane and the boat perfomed as it should, ran 30 to 35mph at 3k rpm, came up on plane with out issue. Headed back to marina for a break and fuel, stopped at this spot to pull in rides and get everything situated to dock at fuel dock and slip. Pulled out into channel and 13mph at 3k rpm was all it would do, could not get it to crest over to go to plane. Backed off and just puttered in. After a couple hour break, went back out and right up on plane she went, ran a few hours pulling people and riding around, 30 to 35mph and no issue getting on plane. Came back to same spot and did the same thing, got every one on board, and readied for docking, same thing, cant get past 13mph no matter what I do, 3k rpm. I did not put the tube in the water at this spot, it was a few miles down river from here and had a full load of people, fuel, and water when I went through, and at planeing speed too. On return I was down about 35 gallons of fuel. Just weird that this happened in the same spot with the same set of circumstances, did not change tilt or trim, trim tabs were in the same position. Did not change them from prevous trip either. Just weird. Did not try it today as I was pulling the risers and did not want it to get hot before this. Any thoughts?......D.........
Scoops on the out drive looked good, no obstructions. Currently dont have a through hull pick up but will look into that, sounds like a good idea.
Next weird problem, could be related not sure. Did it twice yesterday, left marina and went a couple miles up river. Threw tube in the water and pulled a bunch a folks around, no issue getting up on plane and the boat perfomed as it should, ran 30 to 35mph at 3k rpm, came up on plane with out issue. Headed back to marina for a break and fuel, stopped at this spot to pull in rides and get everything situated to dock at fuel dock and slip. Pulled out into channel and 13mph at 3k rpm was all it would do, could not get it to crest over to go to plane. Backed off and just puttered in. After a couple hour break, went back out and right up on plane she went, ran a few hours pulling people and riding around, 30 to 35mph and no issue getting on plane. Came back to same spot and did the same thing, got every one on board, and readied for docking, same thing, cant get past 13mph no matter what I do, 3k rpm. I did not put the tube in the water at this spot, it was a few miles down river from here and had a full load of people, fuel, and water when I went through, and at planeing speed too. On return I was down about 35 gallons of fuel. Just weird that this happened in the same spot with the same set of circumstances, did not change tilt or trim, trim tabs were in the same position. Did not change them from prevous trip either. Just weird. Did not try it today as I was pulling the risers and did not want it to get hot before this. Any thoughts?......D.........
Some ignition systems have a 'Limp Home' mode in case something is going wrong. Might be oil/pressure related or temp related. You'd have to investigate your system.
Similar situation. A friend would go out fishing in a 26' Bertram (I think it was a Moppie) with twin 350 inboards. He'd fish all day trolling out in the Pacific but one engine would cut out at the same place coming back in. I asked George about it and he thought coil. Mechanic didn't think so cuz tests showed it was good. This went on for a month before he changed the coil and everything went back to normal.
I had a coil getting hot but I didn't know until oil started coming out the top plug tower. Coils are funny things. Some have to match the ignition system as in merc's TB ignition.
Similar situation. A friend would go out fishing in a 26' Bertram (I think it was a Moppie) with twin 350 inboards. He'd fish all day trolling out in the Pacific but one engine would cut out at the same place coming back in. I asked George about it and he thought coil. Mechanic didn't think so cuz tests showed it was good. This went on for a month before he changed the coil and everything went back to normal.
I had a coil getting hot but I didn't know until oil started coming out the top plug tower. Coils are funny things. Some have to match the ignition system as in merc's TB ignition.
David- What boat is this on ? Your profile says 1972 17' (male! ) Venture but I'd imagine with the 454 it's a bit larger. Just curious as the number of people on a relatively smaller boat can make a huge difference in the ability to plane off, particularly if any are situated near the stern.
Have you aimed an IR gun near the thermostat housing when the gauge reads 200*F, as a reality check? Gauges and senders can be off.
And at cruise speed , have you put your hand on top of the riser/elbow to see if it remains cool or cool enough you can keep your hand there indefinitely without pain, to tell you whether or not the RW side has sufficient flow?
(I may have missed it above if you have done those things after the HE cleanout.)
Was this engine always FWC cooled or upgraded to FWC from just RWC at some point?
Any chance the A/F had mixed green with red ( old -type with long-life type)?
Or had salt RW gotten into the FW side at any point ?
It sounded like you said you were running undiluted 100% A/F in there for awhile. Is that right, or was it the 50/50 % type that got further diluted? If you aren't sure you have very close to 50/50 % solution in there now , it may pay to drain and refill with new 50-50 for best cooling/ heat-exchanging results.
Have you aimed an IR gun near the thermostat housing when the gauge reads 200*F, as a reality check? Gauges and senders can be off.
And at cruise speed , have you put your hand on top of the riser/elbow to see if it remains cool or cool enough you can keep your hand there indefinitely without pain, to tell you whether or not the RW side has sufficient flow?
(I may have missed it above if you have done those things after the HE cleanout.)
Was this engine always FWC cooled or upgraded to FWC from just RWC at some point?
Any chance the A/F had mixed green with red ( old -type with long-life type)?
Or had salt RW gotten into the FW side at any point ?
It sounded like you said you were running undiluted 100% A/F in there for awhile. Is that right, or was it the 50/50 % type that got further diluted? If you aren't sure you have very close to 50/50 % solution in there now , it may pay to drain and refill with new 50-50 for best cooling/ heat-exchanging results.
100% antifreeze is a relatively poor conductor of heat. If you boat in an area that doesn't freeze, distilled water with a rust preventive additive is a much better coolant. I boat out of SF bay and it hardly ever freezes so I ran with distilled water for over 5 years. Collect the anti-freeze and replace with distilled water. It's cheap enuff. If you have to, replace with AF for winter.
Forgot to talk about your balls...the ones in the thermostat housing. Someone might have tried stretching the springs thinking it would run cooler when it does the opposite. Try getting new balls and springs.
Forgot to talk about your balls...the ones in the thermostat housing. Someone might have tried stretching the springs thinking it would run cooler when it does the opposite. Try getting new balls and springs.
I raised that question several days ago Sandy. Don't know why someone would be running closse to 100% antifreeze in the first place. It won't exchange heat effectively. Before I tore into the engine any farther, i'd replace the antifreeze with known 50/50 and see where I was.
Especiallysince the problem has existed since he bought the boat last year,
Especiallysince the problem has existed since he bought the boat last year,
D., I'm not sure if you remember when you 1st got the boat you had this issue but thought it was minor. I was concerned as I still am. I think the thread was initially in NBR.
Cooling issues are nothing to mess with...
Bill
Cooling issues are nothing to mess with...
Bill
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Lets see if I can answer the questions:
David- What boat is this on ? It is an 89 bayliner 2755, 27 foot, 454 with bravo out drive.
Have you aimed an IR gun near the thermostat housing when the gauge reads 200*F, as a reality check? Yes, guage and IR gun read the same at all temps.
People on board, same going out as comming in and in the same seats too. Actually move people to the bow in the cabin when it did this to see if that would level it off, made no difference at all.
have you put your hand on top of the riser/elbow to see if it remains cool or cool enough you can keep your hand there indefinitely without pain, to tell you whether or not the RW side has sufficient flow? no, have not done this yet but will once the risers are back on.
Was this engine always FWC cooled or upgraded to FWC from just RWC at some point? Not sure, it looks like it came with the boat and was not an up grade, but I really dont know and cant tell from the maintenance records as it was not in there.
Any chance the A/F had mixed green with red ( old -type with long-life type)? Not sure, possible but I doubt it as the PO left 2 bottles of green in the boat.
Or had salt RW gotten into the FW side at any point ? Been in fresh water its entire life as far as I know. It originated in seatle but was not there long and was not registered there so it is doubtful it has ever seen salt water, likely not in the engine for sure as I bought it with 115 hours on it.
It sounded like you said you were running undiluted 100% A/F in there for awhile. Is that right, or was it the 50/50 % type that got further diluted? I dont have a tester so I really dont know, it looked pure, but again no way to know for sure. I have added a lot of straight water to make up for the loss of taking all the stuff off, as did the marina, but I dont know the exact level yet.
Some ignition systems have a 'Limp Home' mode in case something is going wrong. Might be oil/pressure related or temp related. You'd have to investigate your system. No ecu so I doubt there is a limp mode, oil pressure looked good at 40psi, and I could easily get 3k rpm, just could not get it over the crest. Just weird it was in the same spot both times with equal number of people and should be less weight with the fuel burn.
Forgot to talk about your balls...the ones in the thermostat housing. Someone might have tried stretching the springs thinking it would run cooler when it does the opposite. Try getting new balls and springs. No balls and springs in the housing, it is a simple housing with 2 sending units and 2 hoses, all open holes. Enough about my balls
I boat and store in an area prone to freezing temps so pure water is not an option, changing it out each year could be, but a difficult task since there is a lot of lines and a lot of antifreeze. It has 2 external heat exchangers, one in the front of the cabin for heating and one in the water heater also.
Yes it is true that I dont know the exact mix level, but I have lost over 4 gallons of antifreeze and replaced it with water, so far. I would guess it is on the lower end but I dont know that. I guess I need to buy a tester and know for sure just where it is.
Yes it has been like this since I bought it, and did not think much about it. Still wonder if I am chasing a goast as it never gets over 200, even at full throttle on a long run, stays right there, IR confirmed. Agree with a 160 thermo it should get no more than 170, but.....
Would the river water temp have anything to do with it? I dont know what the exchange rate is, but the river was 85 to 89 degrees. Not sure what kind of drop I can expect to see.
Thanks guys.........D........
David- What boat is this on ? It is an 89 bayliner 2755, 27 foot, 454 with bravo out drive.
Have you aimed an IR gun near the thermostat housing when the gauge reads 200*F, as a reality check? Yes, guage and IR gun read the same at all temps.
People on board, same going out as comming in and in the same seats too. Actually move people to the bow in the cabin when it did this to see if that would level it off, made no difference at all.
have you put your hand on top of the riser/elbow to see if it remains cool or cool enough you can keep your hand there indefinitely without pain, to tell you whether or not the RW side has sufficient flow? no, have not done this yet but will once the risers are back on.
Was this engine always FWC cooled or upgraded to FWC from just RWC at some point? Not sure, it looks like it came with the boat and was not an up grade, but I really dont know and cant tell from the maintenance records as it was not in there.
Any chance the A/F had mixed green with red ( old -type with long-life type)? Not sure, possible but I doubt it as the PO left 2 bottles of green in the boat.
Or had salt RW gotten into the FW side at any point ? Been in fresh water its entire life as far as I know. It originated in seatle but was not there long and was not registered there so it is doubtful it has ever seen salt water, likely not in the engine for sure as I bought it with 115 hours on it.
It sounded like you said you were running undiluted 100% A/F in there for awhile. Is that right, or was it the 50/50 % type that got further diluted? I dont have a tester so I really dont know, it looked pure, but again no way to know for sure. I have added a lot of straight water to make up for the loss of taking all the stuff off, as did the marina, but I dont know the exact level yet.
Some ignition systems have a 'Limp Home' mode in case something is going wrong. Might be oil/pressure related or temp related. You'd have to investigate your system. No ecu so I doubt there is a limp mode, oil pressure looked good at 40psi, and I could easily get 3k rpm, just could not get it over the crest. Just weird it was in the same spot both times with equal number of people and should be less weight with the fuel burn.
Forgot to talk about your balls...the ones in the thermostat housing. Someone might have tried stretching the springs thinking it would run cooler when it does the opposite. Try getting new balls and springs. No balls and springs in the housing, it is a simple housing with 2 sending units and 2 hoses, all open holes. Enough about my balls
I boat and store in an area prone to freezing temps so pure water is not an option, changing it out each year could be, but a difficult task since there is a lot of lines and a lot of antifreeze. It has 2 external heat exchangers, one in the front of the cabin for heating and one in the water heater also.
Yes it is true that I dont know the exact mix level, but I have lost over 4 gallons of antifreeze and replaced it with water, so far. I would guess it is on the lower end but I dont know that. I guess I need to buy a tester and know for sure just where it is.
Yes it has been like this since I bought it, and did not think much about it. Still wonder if I am chasing a goast as it never gets over 200, even at full throttle on a long run, stays right there, IR confirmed. Agree with a 160 thermo it should get no more than 170, but.....
Would the river water temp have anything to do with it? I dont know what the exchange rate is, but the river was 85 to 89 degrees. Not sure what kind of drop I can expect to see.
Thanks guys.........D........
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Update:
Took both risers apart, both were clear but showed the same white rock that was in the heat exchanger. Soaked them in CLR for a few days and flushed out. One of them was pitted from the raw water side to the exhaust as evident from some rust in the manifold. Had it surface ground back flat again.
Dumped ALL the antifreeze from the system. Installed new gaskets and the risers back on last night and this morning. Refilled it with 50/50 mix antifreeze.
Ran boat at idle for an hour to check for leaks, loose clamps, missed items, etc. Everything looked good, took the boat for a run, once clear of the marina and in the main channel, put the throttle at wot. She went to 200 and stayed right there for 10 miles. Stopped and turned around, sat at idle for a few minutes, went back to 175. Ran another 10 miles at wot, went to 200 and stayed right there, no more no less. Went to spot where it would not plane out, sat there for a few minutes, back out in to the channel, and right up on plane she went, and right back to 200.
I did the hand on the riser deal, I could keep them there with out pain, but they were warm. I did not bring the ir thermostat with me this trip so I don't know what temp they were, but not hot enough to burn me.
Don't know guys, I have spent over a grand now chasing this and nothing has made any difference. Boats performance is right on where I think it should be, no real outward sign of distress at all. Engine has a bit over 170 hours on it now.
Anyone know what the max rpm should be? At wot I am running about 3300. Thanks guys...........D.........
Took both risers apart, both were clear but showed the same white rock that was in the heat exchanger. Soaked them in CLR for a few days and flushed out. One of them was pitted from the raw water side to the exhaust as evident from some rust in the manifold. Had it surface ground back flat again.
Dumped ALL the antifreeze from the system. Installed new gaskets and the risers back on last night and this morning. Refilled it with 50/50 mix antifreeze.
Ran boat at idle for an hour to check for leaks, loose clamps, missed items, etc. Everything looked good, took the boat for a run, once clear of the marina and in the main channel, put the throttle at wot. She went to 200 and stayed right there for 10 miles. Stopped and turned around, sat at idle for a few minutes, went back to 175. Ran another 10 miles at wot, went to 200 and stayed right there, no more no less. Went to spot where it would not plane out, sat there for a few minutes, back out in to the channel, and right up on plane she went, and right back to 200.
I did the hand on the riser deal, I could keep them there with out pain, but they were warm. I did not bring the ir thermostat with me this trip so I don't know what temp they were, but not hot enough to burn me.
Don't know guys, I have spent over a grand now chasing this and nothing has made any difference. Boats performance is right on where I think it should be, no real outward sign of distress at all. Engine has a bit over 170 hours on it now.
Anyone know what the max rpm should be? At wot I am running about 3300. Thanks guys...........D.........
Great job answering that pile of questions.
Your last post may have given a strong clue as to why the engine runs at 200*.
According to the below link, the carbed 454/7.4 has WOT spec'd range of 42-4600 rpm. So if the engine is tuned up well and compression and fuel supply is good and throttle cable is adjusted properly and no excess exhaust back pressure (plus a few other normal items), it sounds like the engine may be badly overloaded by an over-pitched prop. That creates excess engine heat even if RW flow is sufficient.
However, ...that would only be the case under load.
http://www.perfprotech.com/blog/articles/mercruiser-74lbigv8-marine-engines-specifications#
Your last post may have given a strong clue as to why the engine runs at 200*.
According to the below link, the carbed 454/7.4 has WOT spec'd range of 42-4600 rpm. So if the engine is tuned up well and compression and fuel supply is good and throttle cable is adjusted properly and no excess exhaust back pressure (plus a few other normal items), it sounds like the engine may be badly overloaded by an over-pitched prop. That creates excess engine heat even if RW flow is sufficient.
However, ...that would only be the case under load.
http://www.perfprotech.com/blog/articles/mercruiser-74lbigv8-marine-engines-specifications#
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The link is for MPI 454's, not carbed. But all things being equal, they are still the same basic engine once you get past the fuel system. WOT RPM in neutral is between 3300 and 3400, under load is the same. I cruse at 3000 which is about 36mph. There is a lot of end play in the throttle, and I do remember the PO saying something about having work done on it, so that might be another thing to add to the list to adjust. It is in both forward and reverse, you have to move it a lot before it begins to increase rpm. Prop pitch and size I will have to check, it is not original so could be something there. The PO never did any of the maintenance himself, it was all done by a marine shop, so I would think they would have done it right, but...... These are the same guys who drained the oil into the bilge to change it instead of pumping it out. The boats in the water now so it might be a minute before I can check into that, should have a recipt for the prop though. Will look next time I am out there, we ended up comming home last night for sunday dinner with the family, read I have to cook for the family.
It is a bravo drive, not the II or III, straight bravo. I am waiting on a response from a marine parts dealer for a 142 degree thermostat and if it is compatable with mine, I am going to change it again. I was given information that with this engine, fresh water cooled, I can expect temps at cruise of +30 to +40 degrees of the engine thermostat with the river water temp I am running in of 85 to 90 degrees, which is where I am. This is from others with the same engine as mine, with nearly the same set up. I am taking that info with a grain of salt though as I think I should be no more than 175 with no change running or not..........D........
It is a bravo drive, not the II or III, straight bravo. I am waiting on a response from a marine parts dealer for a 142 degree thermostat and if it is compatable with mine, I am going to change it again. I was given information that with this engine, fresh water cooled, I can expect temps at cruise of +30 to +40 degrees of the engine thermostat with the river water temp I am running in of 85 to 90 degrees, which is where I am. This is from others with the same engine as mine, with nearly the same set up. I am taking that info with a grain of salt though as I think I should be no more than 175 with no change running or not..........D........
Sorry about the MPI link. I think I must have just been looking at the low 310 HP rating on the left side of that chart and thought "carbed."
I have my old Crusader manual from 1988 that shows their spec for the carbed 330hp 454 engines as 42-4400 WOT RPM and most would aim to prop for 43-4400. I think merc would have been about the same spec. for WOT, if perhaps not HP. That's ~1000 RPM over your engine's performance. Something is badly amiss with your setup if you are only attaining ~3400 WOT.
Suggest you have 1 reliable person drive and another move the disconnected-from-cable engine throttle lever to WOT and see what can be attained to rule out maladjustment of cables, including just loose jacket clamp at one end or the other.
If no change, it's either way over-propped or the engine has lost a LOT of it's original power or tach is off. Strongly suggest you never try for WOT in N but I'm astounded you still only reached 3400 when your tried that.
Since you report 36mph/32kts at 3000 rpm cruise I doubt the engine has lost power or you are that over-propped and would really want to check out the cable clamps and adjustments 1st. (I have a 27' boat w/twin 330 hp I/B and it doesn't cruise anywhere near that fast at 3400. ) Is that speed report from GPS SOG, or speed sensor STW?
I'd also check/confirm ACTUAL rpms with a photo-tach on the crank pulley or a digital diagnostic tach. It's possible your dash tach may be bad or just on the wrong pulse setting. Even if you confirm correct pulse settings of the little rotary switch on the back of the tach, note that setting then for the heck of it revolve the switch back and forth a couple times to clean internal contacts before resetting to original .
I have my old Crusader manual from 1988 that shows their spec for the carbed 330hp 454 engines as 42-4400 WOT RPM and most would aim to prop for 43-4400. I think merc would have been about the same spec. for WOT, if perhaps not HP. That's ~1000 RPM over your engine's performance. Something is badly amiss with your setup if you are only attaining ~3400 WOT.
Suggest you have 1 reliable person drive and another move the disconnected-from-cable engine throttle lever to WOT and see what can be attained to rule out maladjustment of cables, including just loose jacket clamp at one end or the other.
If no change, it's either way over-propped or the engine has lost a LOT of it's original power or tach is off. Strongly suggest you never try for WOT in N but I'm astounded you still only reached 3400 when your tried that.
Since you report 36mph/32kts at 3000 rpm cruise I doubt the engine has lost power or you are that over-propped and would really want to check out the cable clamps and adjustments 1st. (I have a 27' boat w/twin 330 hp I/B and it doesn't cruise anywhere near that fast at 3400. ) Is that speed report from GPS SOG, or speed sensor STW?
I'd also check/confirm ACTUAL rpms with a photo-tach on the crank pulley or a digital diagnostic tach. It's possible your dash tach may be bad or just on the wrong pulse setting. Even if you confirm correct pulse settings of the little rotary switch on the back of the tach, note that setting then for the heck of it revolve the switch back and forth a couple times to clean internal contacts before resetting to original .
Yeah, 36 MPH at 3000 RPM is astounding. Like Sandy says, Something is wrong. Either actual speed or gauges. Just the idea of crusing around at that speed is crazy. I'm doing about 18-20 MPH at 3000 RPM. I have a Bravo II.
They make a Bravo I, Bravo II and Bravo III.
http://www.mercurymarine.com/engines/mercruiser/drives/
It's important to know what drive and configuration you have.
They make a Bravo I, Bravo II and Bravo III.
http://www.mercurymarine.com/engines/mercruiser/drives/
It's important to know what drive and configuration you have.
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Speed confirmed via garmen GPS, cell phone GPS, and transom mount transducer with speed wheel. Boats speedo has not worked since I bought it, that was the only thing not functional on the boat, havent crossed that bridge yet.
Got to be the Bravo I, and I said it was not the oem prop because it was a SS prop, but, the picture from the link, even down to the name on the side, is identical to mine. So maybe it is original? Again, the boat had 115 hours on it when I bought it.
18 to 20mph, I am not even on plane yet, I dont plain out untill I hit 28mph, at 18 to 20 I am crested but not plained. I think the speed is fairly accurate as I do pass everything on the waterway except the bass boats.
As far as power goes, I really dont think I have lost any as it has no problem at all getting there, even with a full load of fuel, water, supplies and people on board, with the exception of that one spot that has plauged me and I am beginning to wonder if it was a current issue as I was very close to the lock and dam when it did that. I can hit the throttle and right up it comes, no hesitation at all, and from a dead stop to 36mph is not long at all.
I do believe there is something with the throttle cable setting since there is so much dead space betwen neutral and a rpm increase, both forward and reverse is about the same. Probably 1/3rd to 1/2 position.
Yep 3400rpm in neutral, and this was done during testing to check for leaks or missed clamps etc at the dock. I eased into it slowly but that was it, 3400rpm was all it had, same as when running. What I have been doing is bringing it to wot, getting up to 30-36mph and then backing off to maintain that speed, you can hear the carb quite down and the engine just smooth out, the boat really seems to like it there.
I have access to a diagnostic tach and will confirm that, sounds like a good idea anyway. This tool gets calibrated 2x per year so it is dead on it......D..........
Got to be the Bravo I, and I said it was not the oem prop because it was a SS prop, but, the picture from the link, even down to the name on the side, is identical to mine. So maybe it is original? Again, the boat had 115 hours on it when I bought it.
18 to 20mph, I am not even on plane yet, I dont plain out untill I hit 28mph, at 18 to 20 I am crested but not plained. I think the speed is fairly accurate as I do pass everything on the waterway except the bass boats.
As far as power goes, I really dont think I have lost any as it has no problem at all getting there, even with a full load of fuel, water, supplies and people on board, with the exception of that one spot that has plauged me and I am beginning to wonder if it was a current issue as I was very close to the lock and dam when it did that. I can hit the throttle and right up it comes, no hesitation at all, and from a dead stop to 36mph is not long at all.
I do believe there is something with the throttle cable setting since there is so much dead space betwen neutral and a rpm increase, both forward and reverse is about the same. Probably 1/3rd to 1/2 position.
Yep 3400rpm in neutral, and this was done during testing to check for leaks or missed clamps etc at the dock. I eased into it slowly but that was it, 3400rpm was all it had, same as when running. What I have been doing is bringing it to wot, getting up to 30-36mph and then backing off to maintain that speed, you can hear the carb quite down and the engine just smooth out, the boat really seems to like it there.
I have access to a diagnostic tach and will confirm that, sounds like a good idea anyway. This tool gets calibrated 2x per year so it is dead on it......D..........
Check the anchor point for the cable housing at both ends. look for slop as someone moves throttle. Have someone run throttle at carb to see if there's any difference in amount of throttle.
I just can't get over your speed at that RPM...and the apparent power from your engine to be able to what it's doing.[:O]
I just can't get over your speed at that RPM...and the apparent power from your engine to be able to what it's doing.[:O]
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Update:
bought and installed a 142 degree thermostat. Put that in Friday night and went out Saturday. At idle she would hover around 150-160. Took it for a run, at cruse it would stay around 175, holding wot it would get to 190-200 and stay right there, never more than 200. Back off the throttle and hang around 32-34mph, and 180-190. All that said, I have spent enough money on that problem, a full grand later.
So we go for a fun day on the waterway. Admiral laid out on the tube while I fished. Starting getting hot out and decided to go back to the slip and take a nap. I started noticing the oil pressure gauge acting funny, didn't really think much of it as it has done that before. Not this time, starting hearing the infamous low oil tapping from the engine. Dropped the throttle and opened the engine room to find one side of it covered in oil, and the engine not happy at all. Shut it down. Added a gallon of oil to it right away and started it back up, tapping went away but oil spraying all over one side. Shut it down again, and hailed the marina to come tow me in. Got it back to the slip and after it cooled down, started looking for the obvious, and nothing. Added more oil and had admiral start it while I was down in there. Bingo, found it, hole in remote filter hose to oil cooler. Get up this morning to take it off so I can get one made, interesting trying to find a way for someone 6'5" and 220 pounds to get down beside it, finally laid down on top of the engine and just stuck my head down in there. W e l l, at least one cracked rib later, the rb2@gr5t#$%!! hose is laying on the work bench, couldn't get the other ones out due to the pain that is now in my chest and the fact it was 104 on deck.
Bust out another thousand my butt, no telling what this is gonna cost!.......D..........
bought and installed a 142 degree thermostat. Put that in Friday night and went out Saturday. At idle she would hover around 150-160. Took it for a run, at cruse it would stay around 175, holding wot it would get to 190-200 and stay right there, never more than 200. Back off the throttle and hang around 32-34mph, and 180-190. All that said, I have spent enough money on that problem, a full grand later.
So we go for a fun day on the waterway. Admiral laid out on the tube while I fished. Starting getting hot out and decided to go back to the slip and take a nap. I started noticing the oil pressure gauge acting funny, didn't really think much of it as it has done that before. Not this time, starting hearing the infamous low oil tapping from the engine. Dropped the throttle and opened the engine room to find one side of it covered in oil, and the engine not happy at all. Shut it down. Added a gallon of oil to it right away and started it back up, tapping went away but oil spraying all over one side. Shut it down again, and hailed the marina to come tow me in. Got it back to the slip and after it cooled down, started looking for the obvious, and nothing. Added more oil and had admiral start it while I was down in there. Bingo, found it, hole in remote filter hose to oil cooler. Get up this morning to take it off so I can get one made, interesting trying to find a way for someone 6'5" and 220 pounds to get down beside it, finally laid down on top of the engine and just stuck my head down in there. W e l l, at least one cracked rib later, the rb2@gr5t#$%!! hose is laying on the work bench, couldn't get the other ones out due to the pain that is now in my chest and the fact it was 104 on deck.
Bust out another thousand my butt, no telling what this is gonna cost!.......D..........
The good news is that this repair should be far less than a grand. Especially since you found the source. As long as there is no engine damage from the lack of oil, you should be good after the repair. Make sure you clean up all of the oil and tie an oil absorbing sock in the bilge water. Tie it so it remains in the water and doesn't block the pump switch. Keep replacing that sock every so often until all of the oil is gone.