Almost sunk my boat

Both pumps are 1500 rules.
Fixed the hose today all works good.
Let's hope this never happens again.
High water alarm is working now too though I think it's flaky so I plan to add a second one.
Debating about adding another bilge pump, issue is the thru hull I would need to add.
 
quote:
Originally posted by CurrentSea

Both pumps are 1500 rules.
Fixed the hose today all works good.
Let's hope this never happens again.
High water alarm is working now too though I think it's flaky so I plan to add a second one.
Debating about adding another bilge pump, issue is the thru hull I would need to add.

Click to expand...


Make it a big one and make it portable - solves the through hull problem and gives you some flexibility.
 
My boating concerns are sinking and fire.

'83 Trojan International has 3 separate bilges and 3 separate factory bilge alarms - wired to the horn.

I have since added two additional 3700 GPH emergency bilge pumps, both mounted slightly higher than the factory pumps, wired separately into the isolated generator battery.

When I did the 2005 mechanical refit I added CRASH PUMPS to the engines, making me safer in the event of a catastrophic failure, such as hitting a large submerged object.

REDUNDENCY IS PARAMOUNT

RWS
 
Dave ,
a few years ago one of my engine sea strainers lock downs loosened and fell off. YEa… aft bilge pump was on and not pumping . Fwd bilge pump worked. High water alarm worked...

Rob was not happy... weekly go over everything and yet we will miss something .

Rob
 
especially have to make sure your nuts are tight too.
 
Only 2 1500? Thats a joke... add a 3700 installed a little higher.

Adding a trhu hull is a 15 minute job... i did that last week on my boat, as long as you have access inside the hull you can drill from the inside, have someoen outside on float or dinghy push the thru hull with sealant and tighten inside.
 
I am planning to add a second high water alarm.
I am planning to add another bilge pump.
Lesson learned.
What was probably a .20 cent compression fitting could of sunk the boat!
 
quote:
Originally posted by PascalG

Only 2 1500? Thats a joke... add a 3700 installed a little higher.

Adding a trhu hull is a 15 minute job... i did that last week on my boat, as long as you have access inside the hull you can drill from the inside, have someoen outside on float or dinghy push the thru hull with sealant and tighten inside.

Click to expand...


I both agree and disagree. First statement about the 1500’s being a joke - completely agree. But as far as the through hull - if this is the “oh **** get the ditch bag and raft ready while I try one last thing” pump, don’t install it permanently. When it clogs you want to pull it, clear it and throw it right back down there. When the list shifts you want to be able to move your suction point fast and furious if you think you’re saving that boat (a list isn’t alarming, but when it suddenly shifts, especially if it’s been rock solid in the swell, I’m pulling my guys off, and any of my well-weathered colleagues will do the same. Fiberglass and wood boats stay surprisingly stable right up to the very end - but once they are done, it happens fast.)

Once several compartments are flooded, you need portable pumping capabilities. By all means oversize your maintenance pumps, but if you’re intending one of them to be the last ditch, I’m floating up off this boat not stepping off it pump, you need to be able to clear the intake and move it around as long as it has power.
 
This is why it is so critical to catch a leak ASAP before it is too late. Larger pumps will buy you time and being automatic will start dewatering earlier. Visible and audible alarms at each helm are critical as well. Recently a guy i know almost sank in a new 60 footer because air con pvc pipe broke, no high water alarm on the FB and the bilge pump had a bad float switch. 10 nm offshore. Boat had to be towed back.

As to debris, it again comes to maintenance and not have stuff laying in the bilges. I ve seen oil pads placed under engines, sure it keeps things clean but it will also kill your bilge pumps in no time if they are in the same bilge
 
Mike knows this but, I recommend that you look beyond a Worst Marine Catalog to find your pumps. Why mess around with a 12 volt DC powered pump that relies on a battery and/or alternator for power that will surely die at the most critical time. When the $hit hits the fan and the outside is coming inside faster than Rule ever expected you want one of these or bigger. Even a 120v AC powered portable sump pump (about $125.00) will do much more than the toy pumps sold in marine retail stores. Sure the diesel powered pump cost a little north of a grand, but what would you pay for one when you truly need it? If you routinely operate outside the area of a quick response from a salvor, you need to be prepared to handle your own troubles. Suction hose comes with an easily cleaned strainer. Happy Independence Day!

http://www.dawest.com/trash--water-pump
 
I agree about a trash pump being the best an dinoortant when spending a lot of time offshore. Unfortunately storage space on a recreational vessel is always an issue.

I don’t think AC powered pumps are an ideal solution as they rely on a generator typically mounted low in machinery space. Once the genny gets wet, it s done. Batteries will likely last longer.

We have a 240v emergency bilge pump on the 84 footer I run, with a manifold and suction pipes in the forward bilge, ER and Lazzarette It has to be primed first so one of the first thing I did was setup a valve and hose fitting so I can quickly connect pressure water tomorime it in an emergency. It will take a few minutes to get to the ER and prime it. In the meantime a pair of 3700 in the ER will buy me time. Even if just enough to keep the generators dry
 
That diesel powered pump is 24" X 21" X 18" and weights 115 pounds. If you have room for a 60 quart Yeti ice chest you have room for this pump, plus it is diesel powered and can be stowed just about anywhere. Your fixed system is still limited to having an onboard, operational power source to dewater the hull. Your suction lines are in fixed locations. You will be SOL if the boat is down by the head and your suctions are located aft in the compartments. Certified/Classed vessel are required to have a high and low suction just for that reason. A Machinery space fire puts your fixed system out of business. Interesting that the folks that dewater damaged vessels on a regular basis advocate for portable pumps. Be aware that 3,700 refers to Gallons Per Hour in a perfect setting with zero head on the discharge. Every inch that pump has to lift water out of the hull drives the GPH down very quickly, plus as the 12 volt drive motor heats up the pumps becomes less effective. That 2" pump is rated at 12,600 gallons per hour and will pump at that level as long as you keep adding diesel fuel to the tank. Ever see a competent professional salvor show up to save a boat with a couple of Rule pumps and a 12 volt battery?
 
I agree that a diesel pump is ideal but again storage is an issue. And then you need to get the pump out of its location and muscle the 100+ lbs where it s needed. All an easy job on a work boat or commercial fishing vessel but not on a pleasure boat where the builders (all of them) maximize interior space and every cubic foot is used. Like it or not this is the reality of recreational vessels

Typical Capacity loss is about 20% for 4’ of head so a pair of 3700 will still pump 6000 GPH. Buys you time.
 
quote:
Originally posted by L. Keith

That diesel powered pump is 24" X 21" X 18" and weights 115 pounds. If you have room for a 60 quart Yeti ice chest you have room for this pump, plus it is diesel powered and can be stowed just about anywhere. Your fixed system is still limited to having an onboard, operational power source to dewater the hull. Your suction lines are in fixed locations. You will be SOL if the boat is down by the head and your suctions are located aft in the compartments. Certified/Classed vessel are required to have a high and low suction just for that reason. A Machinery space fire puts your fixed system out of business. Interesting that the folks that dewater damaged vessels on a regular basis advocate for portable pumps. Be aware that 3,700 refers to Gallons Per Hour in a perfect setting with zero head on the discharge. Every inch that pump has to lift water out of the hull drives the GPH down very quickly, plus as the 12 volt drive motor heats up the pumps becomes less effective. That 2" pump is rated at 12,600 gallons per hour and will pump at that level as long as you keep adding diesel fuel to the tank. Ever see a competent professional salvor show up to save a boat with a couple of Rule pumps and a 12 volt battery?

Click to expand...


Think about how it applies to white hulls. Not even close to the same as workboats.
 
Just thinking back to my Dad's 31 Bertram.

We would fish 30 to 40 nm offshore. And the "spare space in the bilge" would hold two 6-packs and a gallon of water or two.

Would we have liked to have a transportable diesel trash pump? Oh, yes. Was there room for it? Not a chance. Not even it we used it as a mount for the fighting chair. ( which is where our two igloos were ).

So, yup. If you have the room, the super-dooper water whizzer is a great idea. IF you have room for it.

But on that boat as well as my smaller 27 ft Trophy pro, there -was- room m for several 3000 gph Rule pumps. It gave you enough time to yell for help, grab the raft and abandon ( if required ). In our case, it was assumed that a severe "leak" meant a lost boat. ( <sigh> )
 
my own solution:

a tee fitting and ball valve ahead of the raw water strainer creates a crash pump that can move an incredible amount of water.

If your engines are diesels, all the better.

RWS
 
I have carried a 3", diesel powered portable pump on a 53', custom built, all wood, displacement cruiser for close to twenty years. The hull has been painted George Kirby WHITE every year since 1964. Prior to that I carried a gasoline powered pump. Fortunately, I have never had to use it pump my boat, but I have pumped maybe ten other boats over the years. I pumped a 45', GRP Sport fishing boat that lost a shaft and wheel while trolling a grass line 30 miles south of the South Pass of the Mississippi river. We were trolling the same grass line and heard their radio call and steamed about 5 miles to their position and set up the pump and proceeded to dewater the boat. About 2 hours into our effort a USCG fixed wing showed up and dropped a jigger pump in a barrel. When the barrel was retrieved and opened up, the USCG pump was missing a starter cord. We boxed it up and returned the pump to USCG station Venice a few days later. The boat would have sunk prior to the arrival of the USCG pump had we not responded. I pumped a sailboat that lost its' rudder to a grounding and the owner was able to plug the hole and FLOAT at anchor until a towing service arrived. The pump/hose/strainer have a position of honor, sitting just forward of our single Grey Marine 6-71N. It can be brought up on deck by two persons and set up in about 5 mins. If stowage is an issue, I would recommend that you take off a few of the flat screen TV's or an Espresso Machine or two and make room for a portable pump. You gotta be able to lick your own wounds when you play outside of the sight of land.
 
Thanks. I ll be looking for a diesel crash pump that can be fitted in place of the aft deck flat screen... it s about 4” deep I m sure there are many pumps that will fit :)
 
quote:
Originally posted by RWS

my own solution:

a tee fitting and ball valve ahead of the raw water strainer creates a crash pump that can move an incredible amount of water.

If your engines are diesels, all the better.

RWS

Click to expand...


Only problem is that when it clogs, you lose your crash pump AND your main engine!

Keeping a clean and clear bilge is so incredibly vital, yet it is so exceedingly rare. Never pumped out a boat without clogging the pickup at LEAST a couple times.
 
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