JoeBTB,
Cetol light does look nice. I referred to the original Cetol. They also have a Cetol Natural Teak that is almost clear, which is nice also. Neither the light or the natural clear have the same UV protection as the original.
I've found that if you follow the Cetol directions exactly, and use only 3 coats, it can look okay. The problem lies in how it ages and in recoating. It becomes really muddy looking and detracts from the look of your teak. The light is better, but because its so new nobody can comment on how it will look over time.
If you really just want to use your boat, then leave the teak alone. Wash it down with saltwater and do nothing else. It will look silver and be the best non skid you can find anywhere.
I like the amber varnish look and the deep gloss that only varnish can bring. I know there are lots of other products that are close, many of which are easier to apply and/or last longer and are more durable, but none look quite as good.
Many people use Cetol (I've used it myself before) and like it. Most people don't want to spend as much time and hassle maintaining their woodwork (teak or any other kind). I have lots of wood, but none exposed to the sun and weather. I put screens on all the windows that block a lot of light out, so I expect that I'll only need to recoat every 3 years, unless I want to add a coat to bring the gloss up and 'repair' any scratches. Even so, a maintainence coat isn't too much of a big deal, just clear the wood, scuff sand it and recoat. 1 day of effort.
As to having it interfere with my boating season, it doesn't. My season is over, my boat is on land and shrinkwrapped. I put heaters inside the boat to warm it up (and Mother Nature has helped with some warmer temps). This is actually extending my season (in a perverted way)!
Cetol light with the gloss overcoat actually looks pretty good, the problem is that it's VERY slippery.
Yzer,
Anti slip with varnish is a real challenge, for sure. The clear silica beads do work, the trick is to apply it correctly and only in the areas needed. I will use it on my steps. The process I've found to work (in testing), is to do the first 3 coats normally, then tape the section you want nonskid, apply a coat and sprinkle the silica beads using a salt shaker. Leave it for a few hours then overcoat gently. Do that a second time if necessary (I'm not sure if a second coat will be required, will see when I do it).
If my boat were new, I might do things differently. I've tried different finishes, but keep coming back to spar varnish because it works for me and looks fantastic on my boat.
I tried using tung oil and then laquer over it, which was a method that some builders used in the 80's. It's messy and the cloths that you use become extremely flammable. I had the bucket with used rags spontaneously combust. Lucky I was there. I scrapped that plan right then.
We've all seen those wooden boats that just shine with a spectacular gloss. Most of us admire them, and at the same time are glad that we don't have to maintain them. I'm hoping to get lucky and have the best of both worlds, the spectacular gloss of varnish throughout the interior of the boat without the hassle of maintainence.
The general rule around here is that a coat of varnish is destroyed by the sun in 3 months. I've seen people come up with the strangest solutions to keep using varnish without the hassle. One Hatteras next to me has wooden rails. The owner has snap on covers for them to reduce exposure. I'm not sure I would go that route. I'd probably go with something else in that case (maybe even Bristol Finish).
Practical sailor did a review of different urethane varnishes. The two best were Honey Teak and 5 Year Clear. Both are available only from the manufacturer as far as I can tell. Honey Teak is made by one of the original people invovled with Bristol Finish, so I expect they're close to each other.
Try doing a search on Bristol Finish or other marine wood treatments. The wooden boat guys and professional restorers use Spar Varnish mainly, and the Epifanes products are most often reported as being the best, and the biggest pain to apply. According to Epifanes you thin the first coat 25%, second 5%, third and after you use unthinned. I thin by 5% for every coat after the first, just to make it easier to apply.
