Engine Coupler Problem?

OK! This what I ordered last time but it's for the later model drives(not type I) but you get the cost reference.:D

I'd call Geo. at 609-625-9424. He'll get you the right mount.

http://www.boatfix.com/bykeywordmerc.asp?textfield=97934A&texttype=2&submit=Search

I tie wrap V belts to all difficult places to get to. Just common sense.

I can't think of anything else to do while the engine is out...except maybe cleaning and painting the bilge white...but the cleaning part prior to painting is the hard part.:(
 
Found the older mount. Call Geo, I don't like the price of the older mount.

http://www.boatfix.com/bycatno.ASP?catpartno=sie182193&B8=Search

OH! That's the same # you came up with.

Pg '0' is non catalog parts.

NAPA has a marine parts catalog that has more parts than boatfix catalog but the part #'s are the same as Sierra.

Not finding any catalog reference to the front mount.
 
Here ya go!
http://www.boatfix.com/mercag/assem.asp?prod=41261&B1=Submit

The mounts. I can't believe the price of the rear mount. Look and see if your old mount(inner sleeve) has slipped. Your engine is light so I expect it to be OK. No need to replace if it's still sound. You might have to replace the leather washer but the 'double wound' washer should be OK but they all come with the other ($8)mount kit. There's a slight difference in the position of the newer mount to correspond to the difference between the older and newer flywheel housing. It just carries the flywheel slightly higher/lower. Don't remember which at the moment. Had to go thru all that when replacing an alpha with a bravo drive.

http://www.boatfix.com/mercag/parts1.asp?partno=963&block=330&img=CRUISER/41261/61.pdf
http://www.boatfix.com/mercag/parts1.asp?partno=963&block=210&img=CRUISER/41261/41.pdf
 
Thanks for all of that investigation, Charlie. I think I'm going to be taking my time on this project. So when I pull the engine, I'm going to take a look at the mounts. Then I will order what I need from the part numbers you have provided. But it sounds like maybe I should order some of the 10-97934A1 Rear Engine Mount Bolt Kits up front?

I've been wondering about this: If I use an alignment tool to check alignment before I pull the engine, will that tell me anything about the condition of the mounts? I realize the alignment is a static thing, and it might be possible that the mounts have "worn" in a dynamic sense. But the main concern I've read about is "sagging mounts". I would think that would show up with an alignment test. Or am I going down the wrong path here?

While I'm waiting for parts to arrive, I have another project--pouring concrete for my daughter's dog kennel. Ughhh, isn't life grand...

Thanks.
 
I’ve also tie wrapped a NEW belt on the front motor mount when I’ve had it off, makes for a quick change if necessary. New one installed and a backup.
 
I have a spare belt tied and wrapped on the front mount for quick belt replacement. Good luck on your project. YOU CAN DO IT.
 
:) Thanks, guys.

I will definitely pick up a spare belt and tie wrap it to the front mount.

Bought a new come-along today to be the hoist part of my homebuilt hoist. At least I'm getting a few tools out of this deal.
 
Checking alignment before engine removal won't accomplish anything. You can do it just for the heck of it, though.

Getting the rear mount kit is a good investment.
 
Assuming I can borrow a hoist, do you think pulling the engine and replacing the coupler is something I can do myself?

YES you CAN do it yourself. It is a piece of CAKE and you'll save a bunch of money! The motor is held down by 4 bolts, a few wires need to be removed as well as the cables (throttle/shift). You could do the job in a day. I just pulled mine to replace spun bearing. I'd never done anything like it, but it was still very simple. Just take it one thing at a time. I had to send crank to machine shop and have it ground then install new main and rod bearings. Fired it up today and took a short cruise. It feels great fixing something yourself. You can use that saved money for fuel!

Take pics of things before you take them apart w/digital camera. Make notes in your book right on the page youre reading when you take things apart. Both help in the event you dont remember how something went (ie. cables, wires) The coupler is behind flywheel cover. Remove 6 or so bolts holding cover on then remove 6 or so bolts holding coupler on.

BTW, where did you get that pic of motor mount assemblies. I could use the part names. My front mount has some slop in it. Nut #44 is tight but there is still a bit of play between #44 and #39.

Thanks for any help and good luck, Ron
 
Thanks for the encouragement, Ron. I'm just waiting for parts and looking forward to doing the work.

You can get to the part diagrams here:

boatfix.com
Search, Mercury and Mercruiser Parts
Click on the "Mercury, #1 On The Water" logo
Select type, e.g. Mercruiser
Select product
Pick category, e.g. Flywheel Housing and Engine Support

You should see the diagram and all the part numbers, names and prices.
Hope that helps.
 
I am making progress. The engine is out and the old coupler splines are gone. I can't believe that they designed the rear engine lift point to be on a flywheel housing bolt that you want to remove, so I had to block it up. A lot of things had to be disconnected--I made good notes and hope I get it all back together OK.

Should the rear engine mounts stay in the mount holes, or should they just slip out? I think I would have to tap them out of there. They look pretty good, and for the cost I am tempted to leave them in place.

Thanks.
 
You should visually see if they're good(hasn't slipped). Leave them in if they look good. If you have to remove them, they may need to be burned out.

I lift the engine by attaching a chain to each side of the rear and front or the heads.(4 mounting points)
 
The new coupler is on. The new starter is on. The new belt is on. The oil is drained and filter off. I'll get the oil drain hose on next. I have the spare belt to zip tie to the front engine mount.

Where do you attach the chain to those four points? I have two lifting eyes. It actually works pretty well, because I keep some weight on a timber slid beneath and some on the hoist, sort of an extra safety thing. It just surprised me to see the lifting eye mounted on a bolt that is likely to be removed.

I took the flywheel housing to a local mechanic. The left mount is shot, the right is OK. He said that's often the case with these older 140's. I guess all the torque goes into the one mount. So I ordered a new left mount and the mounting hardware. But...

I can't get the darn left mount out!! I've tapped on it pretty good but am worried about cracking the housing. I'm going to beg the machanic to use his press to push it out and seat the new one. If not, how do you burn one out, with a torch? And then how do you seat the new one?

Once I get the mount done and the engine aligned and mounted, all I have left is fresh oil and new plugs. Plus hooking up all that stuff. And putting the outdrive back on. Oh well, I'm getting there.

Thanks.
 
Forgot you had an inline 4.

I used a cutting torch. You could try heating the housing around the motor mount and try whacking it. Didn't work for me. The rubber wouldn't transfer the impact to loosen it. It goes in easy.
 
While waiting for parts I'm cleaning a few things up. One item is the power trim.

The operator switch has three buttons:

UP

UP/OUT

IN

The IN and OUT are used for boating operation. Both UP are pushed to raise the drive above boating position for trailering.

My middle button, the UP/OUT, does nothing when pushed alone, in any position of the drive. It's been this way for years. I have been pushing both UP buttons to raise the drive when boating and for trailering. If easy, I'd like to fix this while everything is torn apart.

I've reviewed several manuals and I am still confused. First of all, I can't find the trim limit switch. Second, it looks like the old trim limit switches had electrical connections on the switch housing, but the new ones have sealed connections--meaning you have to pull the bell housing to route the new wires into the transom. Or do you have to pull the bell housing anyway?

The manual says to check continuity at the wire connections (inside boat near transom), but I can't find those wires, either.

If this job is not made any easier by having the engine out (for better access to the transom inside the boat), then I will leave it for a later time. Or does it make sense to do it now? I don't want to change a dozen things at once and then wonder what's wrong after I put it all back together.

Thoughts?

Thanks.

.
 
I have a '73 merc and the trim switch has been like yours since I've had it('93)I just got used to using both buttons to raise and/or trim the drive.

The trim limit switch is at the top of the bell hoising(at least mine is). There's a little SS tab that pushes against a push button when the bell housing rotates up and hits it.

It's not worth messin' with.
 
Great! I will leave it.

Got the oil drain hose installed, oil/filter changed, new spark plugs, new fuel filters, topped off the trim system fluid and checked the rotor spring in the distributor.

What about drilling a bunch of holes through the rubber on that stubborn engine mount, do you think that might release it?
 
Ha, never thought of that. anything to pop out the inner sleeve and rubber so you can collapse the outer sleeve.
 
Sounds good. Once the mount arrives, I will see if the mechanics will use their press for me. Otherwise I will try the drill routine.

Cleaned up the fuel line today. And ordered a new fuel gauge from George. The needle fell off my old gauge at the end of last summer.

Is there a way to check the starter before I put the engine back in? I just want to confirm that it engages the flywheel teeth correctly. I read a bunch of stuff about shims on old starters (none on mine) and having gone to the smaller Arco gearhead style, I'd like to make sure all is well. Can I jump the starter connections from the battery? I see the one big red positive post and the two smaller posts. Is the starter grounded through it's frame to the engine block? So to jump it, I would go to the red post and the engine frame? Or does the external solenoid (the one mounted high on the flywheel housing) have to be involved? Or is this just a bad idea all around?

Here's the old coupler for your viewing pleasure. I still can't believe that the sacrificial aluminum splines are put on a part that requires pulling the engine to change out. Sounds like full employment for Merc mechanics to me.

strike two
 
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