kolher 6.5 genny

got it, Where are the remaining (1-4) leads in the controller box? i believe they are all the black wires correct
 
follow the cable coming out of stator there are 8 leads disconnect all two go to capacitor all the rest end in controller box all should have labels or numbers imprinted on leads

1&2 continuity
3&4 continuity
55&66 continuity

B1 B2 Continuity

NO continuity lead 1 And 3 or 4
NO continuity lead 4 and 55 66 B1 B2
no continuity 55 and b1 B2
No continuity B1 and 55 66 1 2 3 4
No continuity B2 and 55 66 1 2 3 4
no lead can have contnuity with ground or stator shell
 
Yesterday I did the following

Reflash got it to 7.50 volts AC
checked all wires above as noted - all checked out OK
Checked resistance as well for 1&2, 3&4 and 55& 66 - all OK.
What's next???
 
when you say checked out resistance did you remove leads and do all the tests i listed above (did not see you mention B1 and B2)including checking each lead to ground if all check out then you may be removing stator to check diodes on on rotor board if you simply only checked those four leads you didn't do enough and as i said your checking for continuity only a very expensive megaohm meter and stator removed from generator will give you accurate resistance readings in ohms I am also curious how many volts did you use to flash the manual says you should only have from 2-5 volts on those leads?
 
Yes ,I did all the leads including B1,B2, and to ground with wires removed. I use a mega-ohm meter from work (700.00)to very resistance. My manual TP5338 calls for 40 volts AC for 1 second to the 55,66 leads I used a variable ac transformer for this.

I guess it's time to disassemble.

Do you think that Stator can be removed with the generator in the boat, I have plenty of clearance on that side.
 
hopefully its rotor board easier cheaper repair i assume you have manual just need enough room to slip off stator apx the legnth of stator you need to suoort weight of engine and be able to lift it up for it to slide off
 
was it running when it died i remember when i was diagnosing my genny the kohler guy as me if i heard a pop he said you can here it when diodes blow
 
i had same problem with mine what i did was to have something drawing a heavy load(ac) on while i was starting and that worked perfectly and is still good sum 4yrs later
 
Eric,

In the instructions it says to use a puller to remove the stator, what can I use to simulate the puller?
 
i bought small timming gear puller at pep boys there are two screw holes either side I forget thread size they screwed into stator cover and main threaded rod went on shaft of rotor also i tapped around edges and used puller and the sator came off dont forget u willl need to lift and support genny while doing
 
Stator off, rotor diode board off.

Any advise for testing the diode board?
 
test rotor continuity resistance 4-5 ohm most likely good idea retest stator now that its off since you said rotor board off i assume you unsoldered it should have high resistance one direction low resistance other direction other way do the diodes look good? you also need to remove insulating varnish on test points
 
When you say high resistance one way and low the other, are you measuring across the pos and Neg leads where the rotor was solder to, or across each diode.
 
across diodes (diodes act as gates allowing current flow in one direction) each one of the three. There is a company called flightsystems that will test boards and repair but for that board a new one is not that expensive it been a while since i tested mine and i dont remember my exact readings but i remembered that i wasn't 100% convinced it was good but my stator was shorted so i assumed my rotor board was good and it worked when i reassembled it seems that if your rotor okay then all thats left is rotor board being faulty part
 
I purchase a new board from A.S.A.P. elec, for 114.00, figure I have it apart might as well replace.
 
If Andree who is the Kohler rep here in SNJ said you can hear the diodes pop you shouyld be able to what was left of the diode as in 2 leads and a burn mark where the diode used to be. Diodes when stressed to the point of making a popping sound should show physical signs or be blown in half. In that case no ohm meter is needed even poor eyesight works.
Bill
 
i was told the same thing that you can hear them pop or see damage by my local kohler guy on long island my rotor and stator had a little light rust which i lightly sanded and put a new few light coats of electrical varnish on before i reassembled i got the varnish from the motor shop that rewound my stator but i believe garngier also sells it was about 10 dollars for a spray can if you see any signs of rust you may want to do that
 
Hoooray, I now have 120 volts, and then generator runs under full load. However I have to disconnect the HWT sensor when starting in order to stay running. Once running I can reconnect and it keeps running.

Looks like I had 2 issues, Bad rotor board and bad High Water Temp Sensor.

Why does the genny run when I reconnect the HWT lead, if it is bad shouldn't it shut down?
 
Can you measure the temperature of the generator? It sounds strange that you can disconnect the high temp sensor to get it running then reattach it and it keeps running. Is this a computer controlled generator?
Bill
 
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