kolher 6.5 genny

What is the running temperature? Mine has an ECM because it is fuel injected and the Low CO model with a catalytic converter. It has been very touchy since the day it was installed. Before it had 5 hours on it I needed the software flashed, then before 50 hours fuel pumps needed replacement. It hasn't been as bad on plugs as many people say but even when it works perfectly when I shut it down correctly it will start alarming when there is nothing wrong with it. To silence it I have to treat the remote as if I am preping the generator to start again. After 3 days the remote loses it's data connection to the generator and I need to cycle the start/stop/auto switch on the generator itself to regain control from the remote.I was told from Kohler that is a safety that totally kills power to the remote and the ECM on the generator so the genset's battery will not discharge. I'm also told if I wire 2 pins at the genset to my old breaker panel momentary start switch I could reestablish communications with the remote without having to open the ER and hit the switch on the generator. Since the boat is always plugged or being charged via solar and ACR's I wish the timer could be disabled. It's one of the quirks I haven't had the need or desire to resolve.
Bill
 
glad to see it working did look page 6-4 in svc manual for flow chart and to test sensor page 7-11 tells u what to do maybe connection dirty when you pull and reattach wire you make a better connection or when sensor warms up it functions as it should
 
You guys seem very knowledgeable about the Kohler 6.5 unit. I have a 1996 model with about 300 hours on it. Ran great for many years until last season - it failed while it was running under moderate load. Symptom : it wouldn't keep running after releasing start switch... I replaced the capacitor and it ran fine for 2 weeks but has now failed again. My mechanic says it must be the stator or rotor and the unit needs to come out of the boat. I've read your troubleshooting advice in detail regarding testing the stator in place, removing the stator and testing the rotor etc. My question is... since the replacement capacitor fixed the problem in the first place - for a while - wouldn't it seem unlikely to be a stator or rotor problem? Can I ask what you guys would do for a next step? Maybe another (bigger) capacitor? Maybe trying to start it with a load on?
 
You guys seem very knowledgeable about the Kohler 6.5 unit. I have a 1996 model with about 300 hours on it. Ran great for many years until last season - it failed while it was running under moderate load. Symptom : it wouldn't keep running after releasing start switch... I replaced the capacitor and it ran fine for 2 weeks but has now failed again. My mechanic says it must be the stator or rotor and the unit needs to come out of the boat. I've read your troubleshooting advice in detail regarding testing the stator in place, removing the stator and testing the rotor etc. My question is... since the replacement capacitor fixed the problem in the first place - for a while - wouldn't it seem unlikely to be a stator or rotor problem? Can I ask what you guys would do for a next step? Maybe another (bigger) capacitor? Maybe trying to start it with a load on?
 
check my posts in this thread most of info there I have the service manual with the flow sheets
there may be copy's on web available

basically there is two different things that will turn it off after u release starter switch

if you have a capacitor stator rotor or diode issue you will not see 110 v most likely see only see 6 volt

If there is issue with board oil press switch or temp switch it will shut off

first step is to see how many volts its producing when running with start switch depressed

also if field is week in rotor it can be strengthened by starting with a load on like a few light bulbs or water heater don't use a air conditioner or fridge or sens electronics do not want to burn out

then go over my posts if you need more help I can look up in manual
 
Thanks Ericsilv.. we're back at it again this year trying to fix the thing. I have the service manual and am working through the troubleshooting. Part of our problem is we have a stupid automatic switch to toggle from shore power to gen power - not manual - so we have to bypass that in order to try starting with a load on. There is 3.5VAC being produced with the switch depressed... that's it. I was going to try a 25 mf capacitor...
 
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