Replace steering cable?

Golfman25

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Ok. So this year I have some really stiff steering. I've pretty much determined it's the cable. It runs from the aft under the starboard engin then up thru the bulkead to get to the helm. Probably would need to disassemble the helm seat to get access. I'm sitting here debating if I really want to do it. Probably several hours upside down, banged knuckles and a few f bombs. Too hot today. Mechanic will probably charge a lot. Do I want to do it or let the do it?
 
I've changed ours, twice, on a single engine MerCruiser. Like you mention, there's not much "tech" to it, mostly access and contortions. I can offer this: If it's MerCruiser with power steering, there are wrench flats on the little threaded piece the cable nut tightens down onto. That little piece is also the control valve for the hydraulic boost. The flats must be vertical (perpendicular to the keel) or the ports in that piece won't line up as they should. The power steering won't be powered...

Without knowing much more about your boat, really can't help you with advice on changing your cable.
 
If truly cable you might try some oil in the cable.
 
I think it was OHB who was active on this site who gave a good tutorial on greasing cables.
 
Golfman - not sure how old your boat or cable are but please check to see if it has a liner or is the older style steel on steel.
Good luck....paste from old post here....

FWIW - older cables that were solely steel jacketed could receive some benefit from cable lubricants.
Going back 15 years or more most marine control and steering cables started being lined with Teflon or similar types of liners which should not be lubricated.

If you do introduce a petroleum based lube into these cables the Teflon liner will most often soften and swell leaving you with more issues a year after lubing them. If you must send something down into these 'plastic' jacketed cables please consider a non petroleum based lube such as "Superlube" and avoid the light penetrating solutions such as WD-40 at all costs. There is a reason why most all current marine control cable suppliers have Q & A's that tell us to not lube these 'permanently lubricated' type cables.

I have had this same situation exhibited but much worse in the "teflon bearing surfaces" of a larger davit pivot which would completely 'lock in place' after petroleum products were used. It became so common on these davits that we wrote up a procedure to fix them complete with photo's and a step by step process.

Hope this helps
 
Start by checking if the cable is secured to the boat in hard to reach spots. If not, you should be able to use the old cable to pull the new one thru.

Don't know what kind of boat it is but I would look into upgrading the steering to hydraulics. Just two hose to run instead of the cable and it is so much smoother. Not too expensive either, I converted a 14' rib a couple of years ago for about $600. Best upgrade I did to that lil boat
 
To answer some questions. It's an old chris craft inboard. And an old Teleflex cable. I need to remove the cable to measure for the new one. I don't think it is attached to anything, unless it's behind the helm seat. I have read about trying to lubricate it, but I am not sure that would be a good idea based on what I've read.
 
quote:

...an old Teleflex cable. I need to remove the cable to measure for the new one...





Then follow Pascal's lead, and pull some nylon cord or small rope behind the cable when you remove it. Then you can pull the new through. Cable or hoses.
Does the boat have a Teleflex helm? If it's Teleflex Rack & Pinion, chances are the style of cable has changed, at the Rack end. This requires a new Helm. Not all that expensive, just a little extra effort.
 
The Teleflex cables have the part # and length printed on the jacket near each end to aid in ID-ing for replacement.
If that is still visible you could obtain the new cable and pull that through with the old one.
If the old one is hard to remove, you can cut it where convenient & remove each end as long as you pull the new cable or a sturdy chase cord through too.

As with control cables , take care to not force it into too tight a bend radius while installing, but steering cables are a lot tougher in that regard.

But I agree , though more expensive, hydraulic would be better in most every way unless there is a priority of preserving the characteristics of a classic or boat size is just too small to warrant the expense..
 
So I went ahead to bit the bullet and removed the old cable. I had to disassemble the helm seat anyway because my antenna cable broke and needed to be replaced as well. Attached an old line to one end and pulled it out. Was a bit messy from all the years but came out without much effort. Turns out rubber jacket was cracked in several places and I could see the inside looked rusty. Unfortunately, no markings on the cable so I had to measure it. Turns out a WM in the city had it in stock so I went ahead and picked it up. It matches perfectly. All that's left is to install it. Thanks for the advice regarding attaching a line to pull the new cable back thru. Looks like it will save a lot of struggle.
 
Went ahead and installed this evening. Not to bad. Taped to the end of the line I fished thru and pulled it back thru. A few hang ups but a little maneuvering got it thru. A few nuts and bolts and I have finger tip steering again. All in all, not too bad, even in the heat the past few days. Probably saved me several hundred dollars. Thanks for all the advice.
 
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