Now if this was a carbed engine, It could have been a sticking float valve. Wasn't uncommon for the valve to stick open AND closed. If stuck closed, it'd run the gas out of thr float bowl and run out of gas after 20-30 seconds.
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Starboard Engine Fail again.........
- Thread starter dwarren
- Start date
Well, at least the MerC VST actually does have a Float Valve, see Page 142 here:
http://www.boatfix.com/merc/Servmanl/16/16C5R2.PDF
http://www.boatfix.com/merc/Servmanl/16/16C5R2.PDF
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Trash floating in the bottom of the tank blocking intake? Switch tanks?
It could be a fuel issues but since it runs and starts well when cold, but after cruising it won't start I'm thinking fuel Vapor lock. JD is right my Merc 8.1L HO's had a similar fuel coolant/ vapor system shown above.There was a recall for some years if the engine is Merc and circa 2006-2008 if my memory is correct.
As far as the alternators squealing I would check the belts tension and the belts themselves. Is the alternator belt a V belt or a serpentine?
As far as the alternators squealing I would check the belts tension and the belts themselves. Is the alternator belt a V belt or a serpentine?
so bottom line is we have an engine that tries to run when ether is sprayed so spark is present. The electric fuel pump makes running noises when key is turned.
Sounds like the fuel pump is unable to pump. did you find a Schrader valve on the FI rail?
Sounds like the fuel pump is unable to pump. did you find a Schrader valve on the FI rail?
Bill, you might have had fuel injection with VST PLUS a feature they called "Cool Fuel." We don't. The VST has no cooling lines and fuel goes only from Tank to VST by way of Mechanical Pump.
But we're talking MerC because that's what we're more familiar with, and can find illustrations of. And this question is about Crusader. OP's and ours are both 1996 SBC's with EFI. Same base engine, same fuel concept. How did MerC and Crusader get from basic GM components and end up with their distinct brand? We'd need a Crusader service manual, or at least a parts list, to know if the same concepts and problems apply.
Let me repeat one experience: The Vapor Lock issue: Our boat (signature) either quit a couple minutes after a hot re-start until I replaced the engine-block-mounted mechanical fuel pump. Adding to that, sometimes it floods on hot restart, and I handle that by opening the throttle in neutral to shut the injectors off. That's an aside, the Vapor Lock problem is clearly gone since I changed the pump.
To add other experieneces:
1. A bad Battery or poor Battery Connections raise H-E-Double-Hockey-Sticks with a MerC that has electronic ignition. Can be carbed or EFI, same terrible behavior. We struggled all day with a boat with twin 5.7 carbed MerC's. One of the symptoms was belt squealing. It had three batteries - Port, Stbd, Generator. We finally lost one engine for good, went home on one. Mechanic later said "Bad Battery - All you had to do was swap Generator and Engine Batteries."
2. Out at night in our boat, using Power Trim (MerC outdrive trim, not the Bennett Trim Tabs) caused the engine to break up and nearly quit. Cleaned Battery Terminal Connections and problem went away. Those connections looked good, no corrosion evident and were tight. Just oxidation of the post and terminal metals was enough to cause an issue.
3. Found a famiily anchored in their new-to-them boat with MerC I/O. Was missing when they used Trim, then finally quit and wouldn't crank. They'd had the dealer replace one battery and service terminals on the other. I found the terminals dirty and not even snug. Pulled one off with my hand. Cleaned and tightened them all. Started, ran fine, trim worked and didn't disturb the running of the engine.
NOTE: If you suspect Battery or Cables or Terminals, ALSO suspect that Red "Perko" Switch. All it takes is poor conductivity in one place. Where the place is doesn't matter.
But we're talking MerC because that's what we're more familiar with, and can find illustrations of. And this question is about Crusader. OP's and ours are both 1996 SBC's with EFI. Same base engine, same fuel concept. How did MerC and Crusader get from basic GM components and end up with their distinct brand? We'd need a Crusader service manual, or at least a parts list, to know if the same concepts and problems apply.
Let me repeat one experience: The Vapor Lock issue: Our boat (signature) either quit a couple minutes after a hot re-start until I replaced the engine-block-mounted mechanical fuel pump. Adding to that, sometimes it floods on hot restart, and I handle that by opening the throttle in neutral to shut the injectors off. That's an aside, the Vapor Lock problem is clearly gone since I changed the pump.
To add other experieneces:
1. A bad Battery or poor Battery Connections raise H-E-Double-Hockey-Sticks with a MerC that has electronic ignition. Can be carbed or EFI, same terrible behavior. We struggled all day with a boat with twin 5.7 carbed MerC's. One of the symptoms was belt squealing. It had three batteries - Port, Stbd, Generator. We finally lost one engine for good, went home on one. Mechanic later said "Bad Battery - All you had to do was swap Generator and Engine Batteries."
2. Out at night in our boat, using Power Trim (MerC outdrive trim, not the Bennett Trim Tabs) caused the engine to break up and nearly quit. Cleaned Battery Terminal Connections and problem went away. Those connections looked good, no corrosion evident and were tight. Just oxidation of the post and terminal metals was enough to cause an issue.
3. Found a famiily anchored in their new-to-them boat with MerC I/O. Was missing when they used Trim, then finally quit and wouldn't crank. They'd had the dealer replace one battery and service terminals on the other. I found the terminals dirty and not even snug. Pulled one off with my hand. Cleaned and tightened them all. Started, ran fine, trim worked and didn't disturb the running of the engine.
NOTE: If you suspect Battery or Cables or Terminals, ALSO suspect that Red "Perko" Switch. All it takes is poor conductivity in one place. Where the place is doesn't matter.
Been following this thread as it sounds very much like an issue I've been experiencing and been living with the past several seasons. In my situation I found that venting the engine compartment whenever we sit longer than 10-15min helped to keep things cooler and the issue is less apt to occur - not always, but its def better. This leads me down the vapor-lock road, but not certain. Was considering adding thermal tape for all fuel lines.
I don't even know where it IS right now, but I carried an unmounted bilge blower with wires and battery clips, to hasten the cooling of the fuel system when it pulled its stunt. I could get cooldown time from about 30-mins to about 10.
I believe the manufacturer suspected this issue would occur as my boat has a hard-wired, thermostat activated blower that sucks fresh air into the engine compartment separate from the blower I activate before starting. I do need to get a lower temp thermostat or simply have it switch activated - by the time it kicks on automatically, the issue is already present. For now opening the engine cover 3-4" every time we sit seems to do the trick.
JD Posted - May 20 2015 : 12:08:32 Show Profile Email Poster Reply with Quote
Bill, you might have had fuel injection with VST PLUS a feature they called "Cool Fuel."
JD, yes you are correct I had fuel injection with the VST PLUS aka Cool Fuel.
I never had any hot starting issue with my Merc 8.1L HO's.
I also had a single 310 gallon fuel tank located mid ship the engines were V drives under the cockpit.
The ER stayed cool I ran a pair of 4" VETUS blowers most of the time while cruising at slow speeds of for 15 minutes before starting.
The ER passive cooling was also quite good.
Bill, you might have had fuel injection with VST PLUS a feature they called "Cool Fuel."
JD, yes you are correct I had fuel injection with the VST PLUS aka Cool Fuel.
I never had any hot starting issue with my Merc 8.1L HO's.
I also had a single 310 gallon fuel tank located mid ship the engines were V drives under the cockpit.
The ER stayed cool I ran a pair of 4" VETUS blowers most of the time while cruising at slow speeds of for 15 minutes before starting.
The ER passive cooling was also quite good.
quote:
Originally posted by jtybt15
Did you ever check spark plugs for possible water contamination. How fast were you going when stall? Slow/idle RPM can allow water reversion that can suck water from exhaust. This can happen cuz of cam overlap. At the top of the exhaust stroke and the beginning of the intake stroke, both the intake and exhaust valves are open at the same time. For a split second, the intake stroke is sucking hard and can pull from the exhaust and water exiting from the end of the riser.
Charlie Merc had an exhaust flapper valve close to the riser inside the exhaust hoses to keep this from happening on the late model 8.1L HO's. This series engine did have the cam overlap issue you mentioned, but mine were fine due to the proper installation of the exhaust system components.
All good stuff gents, appreciated. I went back and she started cold almost right away (not immediate but I had spilled fuel out of water sep to check for issues). There is no mechanical pump on the motor....just the electric. I ordered a new filter to see what happens. They were basically laying just in front of the throttle body.
I did take the boat out and ran it hard. I came in and left the motors to run for a few minutes while I tied up and left blowers on. An hour later, the motor started immediately.
I did take the boat out and ran it hard. I came in and left the motors to run for a few minutes while I tied up and left blowers on. An hour later, the motor started immediately.