My stbd throttle has become "stiff" as it approaches WOT, to the point that it feels like it's bound up and will break if forced. I disconnected the cable from the throttle linkage, and the linkage is free and smooth. I disconnected it from the throttle lever, and the lever is free and smooth. So, I disconnected both ends and pulled the cable by hand and you guessed it, it's the cable. Is it odd that it's free until it nears "full extension"? If the cable was shot, wouldn't it be sticking or hard to move through the entire travel? Can they be lubed, and if so is it worth it, or should I plan for a new cable? The levers/cables are Teleflex single action mechanical units and as far as I know, they are original to the boat which is a 2005.
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Throttle cable problem
- Thread starter JeffR
- Start date
You can lube the sliding ends under the rubber caps with light Teflon grease or Teflon oil but that won't do much to the inner cable. Generally when it gets to the point you describe it is best to replace.
Many cables have 8" min bend radius, but Teleflex Xtreme , Ultraflex, and my new favorite Cablecraft Blue Max cables have good 4" min bend radius.
The CableCraft Blue Max Light Duty cables even have 2" (!) min bend radius and work best ever on my tower controls with many very tight bends where even the Xtremes were not very effective for small increment throttle control.
http://www.cablecraft.com/pdfs/Blue_Max.pdf
http://www.teleflexmarine.com/support-2/faqs-2/controls-and-cables/
Many cables have 8" min bend radius, but Teleflex Xtreme , Ultraflex, and my new favorite Cablecraft Blue Max cables have good 4" min bend radius.
The CableCraft Blue Max Light Duty cables even have 2" (!) min bend radius and work best ever on my tower controls with many very tight bends where even the Xtremes were not very effective for small increment throttle control.
http://www.cablecraft.com/pdfs/Blue_Max.pdf
http://www.teleflexmarine.com/support-2/faqs-2/controls-and-cables/
Thanks Sandy. Does it sound like the actual inner cable that's gone bad based on the description? I would think there would be problems throughout the range, but that's not the case. The rest of the cable range is very smooth. Does it sound feasible for a 2005 to need cable replacement? I think I'm fine with std cables with regard to the bends; I don't have any sharp bends. It's going to be a total bit$#rb2@gr5t to replace, though!!
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- Dec 16, 2003
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The Teleflex link that Sandy posted has a lot of information about control cables and how to test them.
When you think about it, WOT is the least used position of the cable vs. the jacket so it's very possible that there is wear or corrosion at that particular point that is causing the friction. Yes, it's certainly possible that a cable installed in 2005 will need replacement. It all depends on how it was routed and supported and where the cable bends are.
Yes, it will be a lousy job; control cables almost always are. Manufacturers sometimes bundle the control cables with clamps or cable ties to electrical wires so you can't just rip the old cables out. You may find it useful to use the old cable as a pilot line to pull the new cable in place.
If I were you, I'd bite the bullet and replace all of the control cables at once even though the others seem okay. It won't be long before another one begins to get stiff.
Bill
When you think about it, WOT is the least used position of the cable vs. the jacket so it's very possible that there is wear or corrosion at that particular point that is causing the friction. Yes, it's certainly possible that a cable installed in 2005 will need replacement. It all depends on how it was routed and supported and where the cable bends are.
Yes, it will be a lousy job; control cables almost always are. Manufacturers sometimes bundle the control cables with clamps or cable ties to electrical wires so you can't just rip the old cables out. You may find it useful to use the old cable as a pilot line to pull the new cable in place.
If I were you, I'd bite the bullet and replace all of the control cables at once even though the others seem okay. It won't be long before another one begins to get stiff.
Bill
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These cables have been discussed here before and there were some excellent suggestions forlubing including one thread that told how to make a home made luber. Usethe search as I don't have it handy. You should be able to lube it and continue to use it. Cables should be part of an annual routine at winterizing or pre launch. If it's lubed under pressure it should get grease all the way through.
As you have little to lose unless the inner strands are parting, you might try Old Houseboater's clever lube setup dancerscap alludes to,(or Charlie's,) that has worked for a bunch of people.
http://www.boatered.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=95043
In place of the Mystery oil though I'd suggest the thin Tri-Flow Superior Lubricant.
http://www.triflowlubricants.com/Superior_Drip/superior_drip.html , but add the caveat it is possible to have throttle cables that are too slippery and have rpm reduction creep in response to the engine throttle lever return spring.
http://www.boatered.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=95043
In place of the Mystery oil though I'd suggest the thin Tri-Flow Superior Lubricant.
http://www.triflowlubricants.com/Superior_Drip/superior_drip.html , but add the caveat it is possible to have throttle cables that are too slippery and have rpm reduction creep in response to the engine throttle lever return spring.
- Joined
- Feb 3, 2006
- RO Number
- 20150
- Messages
- 372
quote:
Originally posted by Sandy
As you have little to lose unless the inner strands are parting, you might try Old Houseboater's clever lube setup dancerscap alludes to,(or Charlie's,) that has worked for a bunch of people.
http://www.boatered.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=95043
In place of the Mystery oil though I'd suggest the thin Tri-Flow Superior Lubricant.
http://www.triflowlubricants.com/Superior_Drip/superior_drip.html , but add the caveat it is possible to have throttle cables that are too slippery and have rpm reduction creep in response to the engine throttle lever return spring.
Yeah that's the one. Thanks.