VacuFlush Hammers

RumDiet

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Member
Joined
Aug 25, 2002
RO Number
9903
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264
Well - I inadvertently left the head on for a week. Upon return to the boat last weekend - the VacuFlush loses vacuum quickly (about 35 seconds) and hammers quite loudly towards the end of its cycle.

Took the pump out - replaced all the duck bill valves.

Hammering seems to be coming from the pump. Toilet works - flushes but am worried that it could quit at any time.

Advice please?
 
Check the bolts that mount the motor to the pump assembly. Watch it cycle and see if there is movement out of character. A little flexing is normal.
 
Not the bolts - I had the pump completely out on Saturday to replace the duck bills. Same noise before and after. . .
 
I have one which has been doing this for year, probably coming from the cam/piston
 
Pascal - Yes - sounds like its coming from the piston - is that replaceable or do I have to purchase a whole new pump?
 
Every part on those pumps is replaceable. I have a parts list for the B and the S series. You might try calling them or find the name of the local service company to diagnose what you need.
 
quote:

Originally posted by caltexfla

Every part on those pumps is replaceable. I have a parts list for the B and the S series. You might try calling them or find the name of the local service company to diagnose what you need.






Is it still losing vacuum?
 
Yes - still losing vacuum - local service guy charges an arm and a leg. I have found the bellows on line and will most likely replace that.
 
Yes - but slowly. Pump goes on every 30 seconds or so. Turns off - back on in 30 secs.
 
I've never understood why get such an expensive, complated system to a simple job. VacuFlush systems are a pain in the ass.
 
Jim they are fairly reliable heads and use freshwater and very little of it. I don't use one anymore however I recently got tired of changing out my Jabsco macerator/ transfer pump for my Raritan Hold-N-Treat PuraSan type I waste system. I installed a SeaLand diaphram transfer pump, it's quieter, moves more than enough blackwater and it will outlast the Jabsco run dry macerator. I have no reason for a macerator my current head is freshwater and macerates. It is only used when I can discharge treated waste, otherwise I use pumpout boats or facilities.
Bill
 
If the bowl goes dry you have found part of the problem. Once the bowl goes dry air will move into the system and that will cause the pump to cycle. You will need to rebuild the toilet. Try tightening the hose clamp that pulls the top and bottom together but I doubt that will do much for you.
 
I have a Raritan Crown Head and it works just fine, I have the thru-hull half closed and it won't fill the holding tank, any more than any other head. It is simple and that's what I like (KISS) Keep It Simple Stupid.
 
Thanks bum - looks like I have an off season project ahead of me!
 
I will say that you probably want to open the sea cock, clean the bowl thoroughly and flush a ton of fresh water through it. I use lestoil and it still doesn't get the odor out of the pipes away from the bowl.
 
bum - Sea Cock has nothing to do with this as the entire system runs on fresh water from our tank - tank to the bowl - bowl to the holding tank, holding tank through the marina pump out, to the municipal sewer and then back to the sea!

Before removing the pump (again) I will give the thing several detergent laden flushes.

My pipes don't smell. I regularly give the system a rinse with low sudsing detergent - I use spray nine. If your pipes stink, there is nothing to be done, and you will have to replace them. In the future instruct your guests to use pleanty of water to flush everything through the system so waste dosen't sit in the pipes. A good "super flush" before leaving for the weekend will help also.
 
99% of the time there is no need for a rebuild. Try cleaning the seal between the ball and the bowl top and bottom, then try applying some silicon grease to that seal. We get this bowl going dry issue every now and then and almost always it is just solved by flushing some water through and letting your foot off the pedal abruptly at the bottom of the stroke. The other times the clean and grease solves it. We have three of these systems on board, we have lived aboard now for five years and these are the most dependable toilets I have ever owned on land or elsewhere. Two of them I have done zero with in five years other than cure the dry bowl issue occasionally as noted, and the other I have done zero to once I remediated a faulty installation by a PO which took two years to evidence its effects.
 
There isn't much to rebuild with a VF. If water doesnt stay in the bowl, and a flush and clean of the seal doesn't fix it, pop the bowl out and replace the ball seal. 5' job... I ve gotten 10 years out of some seals, 5 years is usually average.

If water stays in and it still cycles, the duckbills are the prime suspects. When installing new ones I put some liquid soap on the flanges ago they dont get twisted when you screw the fittings. Don't over tighten the fittings as that will twist the DB

Bellows usually arent the problem although it s not a bad idea to change them at about 10 years. When they fail, thy usually squirt out and make a mess... But I ve never seen one fail before 10 years

I ve had VF for 15 years (3 on my current boat)... 4 on the boAt I run do let see that s about 55 head years combined :) and wouldn't have anything else. What unlike is that they are easy to maintain and will always get you home...
 
I have no real complaints other than the hammering - planning on replacing the bellows - probably leaving it on for a week ended their life. I'll report back once its all put back together.

Thanks all.
 
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