Breaker issue

quote:
Originally posted by Double D

quote:
Originally posted by D. Andrews

Double D, you know I got to thinking, I have my boat set up similar at home. I keep mine plugged in to shore power here, I have a GFCI breaker feeding a duplex outlet, then a gfci protected extension cord feeding an adaptor to the shore cord, that feeds a gfci breaker, feeding gfci protected outlets. And it trips the gfci outlet if I switch from shore to inverter or back, but holds after that. The marina I use have gfci breakers in the pedestal. Those breakers in turn feed the outlets in the pedestal. I have never asked if they are feeding the dock with gfci breakers, but I bet they are..........D.............

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D.....WHY so many GFCI's ? It only takes ONE.... properly wired.... to protect you and the boat.

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Absolutly corrct. But here is the situation and why it is that way. The boat, it came that way factory. It was originally wired that way, a gfci main, feeding everything including the first of the string of convience outlets which is a gfci outlet. At home, I have it conected to an outdoor outlet, which is feed from, you guessed it, a gfci breaker. None of this was intentional, just worked out that way, and it works. This spring I will be changeing the home set up a bit. I will be installing a new 30a circut, ran underground to where I park it, as well as a water outlet. Basicly setting up a full pedistal at home so I dont have to run cords and hose to it. But, it will be feed from a gfci breaker since it is an outdoor install to be with in code.

Cant argue with you on this one, it does only take one, properly wired to work right. In my case, it is just the way it worked out. But even when I change it up, it will still be a gfci circut.........D..........
 
D.....I agree with you about GFI'ing the new run you plan for the outdoor pedestal....its a safe bet.

When I built my pedestal for my boat.....I ran.... one line straight up 20a non GFCI circuit that I used ONLY for my ice eater ....one 20a GFCI protected line for when I was using my electric polisher or other devices on the boat ....one 30a non GFCI for boat power.....one CATV line.....one telephone line......one 1/2 potable pvc tube for water with filter.....one low voltage ( 12vdc ) line for dock lights. The 2 non GFCI circuits had lock cover plates to prevent anyone from getting hurt. It worked great for all the years I lived there.
 
to the OP, take multi tester to dock pedestal after printing out a diagram of a marine 30 amp power cord cap from Hubbel or similar mfg. check each of the dock plugs to see if you have hot where it is supposed to be and neutral and ground where they are supposed to be. do this on both outlets, then check across the two hot outlets on the dock to see if you read 120volt or 220 volt. if you read 120 across hot to hot its not a phase issue. is you read 220 volt I would look to the boat to see if you are sharing any hot across the two boat receptacles when either main breaker is on with all load breakers turned off. hope this makes sense to you. if any of this does not sound really familiar get an electrician to help you, as others have noted this is not a good idea if you are not familiar with electrical work safe practices
 
then check across the two hot outlets on the dock to see if you read 120volt or 220 volt. if you read 120 across hot to hot its not a phase issue. is you read 220 volt I would look to the boat to see if you are sharing any hot across the two boat receptacles when either main breaker is on with all load breakers turned off. hope this makes sense to you

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Makes no sense to me.
 
This is how it should look.. ALL the bare copper grounds in the GROUND buss bar......ALL the white neutrals in the NEUTRAL buss bar.. All circuit's labeled.... neat and organized.

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I installed a digital 50A-2 phase surge protector....to protect from stray voltage...spikes...lows....lighting strikes ......reverse polarity.....etc. in my coach.....and had to straighten out the mess the builder had.
 
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