Buff Magic / Polish Pro help

Ok today I found another use for Buff Magic. My 2004 4-Runner has one of those smoked bug deflectors on the front hood. Had the SUV detailed today and it looks great with the exception of the bug deflector. So I pulled out my trusty can of Buff Magic and BAM...looks brand new and it got rid of the opaque look!!
 
I second what "the great escape "said. My searay has a plexi glass sliding door,with a sunbrella canvas cover that tends to lay on top. After twenty years it had its share of fine scratches and very hazy look. Buff magic and pro polish brought it right back.
 
OK, You guys & this thread have me interested in trying this stuff. I just bought the Mikata 7" 9227c Polisher but I've never used it or one like it. If my understanding is correct I'm going to summarize the information as it's a lot to read through...

Buff Magic on a Wool pad on low speed #1 setting
Polish Pro (light coats) with foam pad rub off by hand.
*Collinite Wax as a finish coat (hand or machine I'm not sure?

Although this Makita may end up on Ebay I'm going to give this a try?
Too bad there is no remote control Makita?
 
I wouldn't apply wax of any type after the Pro Polish. The benefit of Pro Polish is that it seals and protects the gel coat so you don't have to use products with wax that will attract dirt and cause yellowing of the gelcoat. Before you put the Makita on EBay, let me know.
 
Greg, I thought the waxing after the Pro Polish will extend the time between having to do this again?
 
Art, I would tend to say if you wax after applying Pro Polish you will dull your shine. The polish is a polymer so it seals and protects. At some point the industry needs to clarify the use of terms, since technology has outpaced the definitions. Also, depending on what your gel coat is like you might try the 3M foam pads, they come 2 in a pak and found at your local auto body supply shop.

Amazing you were able to collate 60 postings into one small summary. You can't be much fun at a "meeting!" Good luck with the Makita, if Greg doesn't go for it give me a holler.
 
3M Pads? Hummm. My Gel Coat is pretty good? Two pads came with the bonus pack & bag with the Makita. One is wool the other foam I think? It's still unopened. You think I should buy the 3M anyway? A shame not to use what I already have?
But I am looking for maximum results. Then I intend to hire & train a guy for a full time job. Between the boat and my home I think I'll have enough to keep him pretty busy. If not I can always have him do construction work too?
If I'm lucky I be done before the first snow.
 
Art, I like the foam pads also. I think they are easier for a rookie like me to use and get swirl free results. Look at the thread on the difference between wax and polish. Bob VI said it very well.
 
I don't like 3M foam pads. I don't have problem with swirl marks, so I was unhappy when I did some small touch-up with foam, only to see it DULL the shine that I had achieved with wool.

George, I thought you had mentioned another brand of foam pads...? I meant to try them, but never got around to it.

As far as Pro Polish goes, I like how easy it is to apply and I agree that it doesn't yellow or attract dirt. HOWEVER, I've done a side-by-side comparison of Pro Polish and Fleetwax, and the Fleetwax TROUNCED it in durability. It wasn't even CLOSE!

The caveat about Fleetwax is that it has NO tolerance for a less than perfect surface, and any excess material will attract dirt like glue.

I have Fleetwax on select areas of the boat right now, including the transom. It shines like (or better than) new, and dirt rolls right off. I CAN wash the transom without soap, but even generous sudsing is followed by beading water.
 
Seth, if you check out proper boat care you will find they have a good selection of both wool and foam pads. Since there is no standardization of pad duty vis-a-vis color you will see a rainbow in both types of pads. About the only thing you can count on is when in doubt, go back to yellow. The difference with the foam pads is the closed cell technology and the surface texture.

With new advances the polishers are easier to use and you are less likely to damage your surface while you learn the ropes. One manufacturer has gone to the extent of calling their paint care line "no-risk!"
 
SLW - care to explain your comments below regarding durability??? We all want to know what you mean.......thanks.

"As far as Pro Polish goes, I like how easy it is to apply and I agree that it doesn't yellow or attract dirt. HOWEVER, I've done a side-by-side comparison of Pro Polish and Fleetwax, and the Fleetwax TROUNCED it in durability. It wasn't even CLOSE!"
 
George, the last time I whined about this, I swear you had suggested I try a particular BRAND. I promised to try it, and never did. I'm still willing.

I used 3M yellow and gray pads. The gray is the softer, finer of the two and specifies use with Finesse-It II finishing material, which is exactly what I use to take the surface to its highest level of shine. Both of those pads reduced the shine I had achieved with Finesse-It II and the 3M yellow wool pad. (in 3m's wool line, orange is coarse, yellow is the medium and white is finishing) So really, the foam was only competing against the mid-level wool, and I was still disappointed.

I'll also note, and maybe I can count on some of my friends and neighbors to chime-in with a comment (albeit forced) about the condition of the transom, it's about as shiny as it'll get. So that's not to say that HUGE progress can't be made with foam, but that in my experience, there is a limit.

I have also learned the hard way using dangerous techniques and materials, so I won't discourage ANYONE from playing it safe. "No Risk" is a great term, but no risk implies limited gain as well. It took me a while to fully appreciate the power of Finesse-It, and I have to give George credit for what I think is even more important than speed, machine brand and pad: a spray bottle. Finesse-It doesn't break down like Buff Magic. It comes right out of the bottle very, very "fine". It's supposed to dry as you work, which is one of its dangers. It's also one of the COSTS. By applying a detailers spray or simply adding water, you can mitigate the risk of burning and GREATLY stretch the product. I'd say each pint of water you use saves about $15 in product. No kidding.

Spike, by durability I'm referring to it's staying power/longevity and resistance to forces such as soap and sun. While polymer products are much more advanced and often have attributes that make them more user friendly, I'm not so quick to dismiss the Old School. I use no fewer than 5 products on the boat, depending on condition, location and purpose of the surface. When applied side-by-side, I've found that Fleetwax to have unmatched shine and durability. I can't put it everywhere though. It's LETHAL on non-skid, it can yellow, and the surface MUST BE PERFECT or it will attract dirt.
 
Asked the hired hands to use BM on the hull. Cleanest look I have had yet.

BM on the superstructure today (myself with machine). WOW. Nice shine - also shined my corian tops on the flybridge...
Can't wait to see what the ProPolish brings. Hope I have better luck than GBC above. Plan to put BM on an leave it for a few days, then high speed machine buff it off (I saw a post that said "dryer is better". Let me know if this is an acceptable approach Greg.
 
Don, I would advise against leaving BM on for a couple of days. My experience with it says you will have a tough time getting it off or getting a good shine at that point. If you want to leave something on for a couple of days - and I am not sure leaving it on that length of time is going to buy you a better job - I would leave Pro Polish or Leverage on for the longer time. If left on for a couple of days the Buff Magic would be absorbed into the gel coat and you would have to "raise" it to get a shine, more work than the product calls for. Good luck with it though.
 
Art,

If you use Collinite wax after Pro Polish you WILL strip the Pro Polish. Forget the wax. Or, if your are a Collinite devotee, leave out the Pro Polish and save your money.

For me it's Pro Polish - doesn't accumulate and hold dirt which wax does.
 
Mannmade
Good catch - Typo on my part. I meant leave the ProPolish for a few days. You are right about the BM. I can't leave it on for very long at all and I find it harder to remove. The admiral follows right behind me with the rag to remove residue the buffer leaves behind.
 
Don, if the Admiral is following behind you with a "rag," are you equipping her with the right rag to make her job easier too? She should be using a microfiber towel, preferably a waffle weave to remove all residue and leave a clean surface. Send a PM if you have any questions....G
 
Old T-shirt. XL size. 100% Cotton. Now I am really feeling stupid! And she's doing an outstanding job! :-)
Don
 
Greg,

Used the foam bonnet this weekend with BM. Liked the results. I do feel if you need to work on dull gelcote you would have to step up to a wool bonnet.

My gel is very good so the foam bonnet really put a mirror finish on it without any swirls.

Going to try using Rejex this weekend after the BM to see if this works better than Pro Polish.

Jonathan
 
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