Kohler Generator 9EOZD Won't Start

Ibowls are ok on diesel boats with the metal shields underneath . I have seen them on almost every diesel boat I ve been on.

For instance, The big racors comes with them and they are always instwlled on diesel, not gassers where they would be mounted above deck.
 
Yeah, but to switch to the ones with the metal bowls underneath, I would need to change out the whole filter assembly.
I agree Regal cheaped out on the filters. Wouldn't be cheap to switch over to a canister type as opposed to the spin on that I have.
I would have to change 3 mounts.
 
Why not ask racor for the proper code reference.
 
I asked them about adding the plastic bowls and they explained to me the rules for ABYC.
I guess I can ask what it would be to swap out the whole assembly.
Guess just need to match up the flow rates.
 
This is the kind of filter y see on a diesel boat. Mounting shoudo rally not be a problem as the plate shown in your pic seems surtdy enough.

This one is the 90gph version, which is probably good for your mains but too big for the Genset, they make a smaller version.

http://www.westmarine.com/buy/racor...15-psi-shielded-see-thru-polymer-bowl--253247

They also make a dual version with a selecting valve allowing to select the second filter on the fly. Probably an overkill for week end use but a must for any cruusing boor heavy use boat.

You peace of mind? it s well worth it.
 
quote:
Originally posted by CurrentSea

So if I have Algae in tank, I assume I need to kill it. So biobor JF?
Then it will just pass thru or do I need to clean tanks?

Click to expand...


Biobor will kill it and it goes in the filters.
 
nothing wrong with added filtration. Your electronic engines require very clean fuel You can add a racor upstream from the current filter and use 30 micron filters for big junk. Tony Athens recommends multiple kevels though I disagree with his approach using only spin on filters. To me that clear bowl is the only real time indicator of fuel condition. The removable elements of racors don't hide what been captured either as do the spin on type.
 
quote:
Originally posted by CurrentSea

I asked them about adding the plastic bowls and they explained to me the rules for ABYC.
I guess I can ask what it would be to swap out the whole assembly.
Guess just need to match up the flow rates.

Click to expand...


Plastic bowls are prohibited for gassers. I've never seen a rule against plastic see thru bowls for diesels.
 
http://www.westmarine.com/WestAdvisor/ABYC-Requirements-for-Diesel-Fuel-Filters Recently we learned a disturbing lesson from a very experienced local marine surveyor. It seems that an obscure reference in the ABYC Standards mandates that all fuel filters used on diesel engines withstand a heat requirement if they are mounted in the engine compartment. We started to become more concerned when one of our technical writers, who lives aboard his Catalina 30 sailboat, got a package from his insurance company. It contained a survey for him to fill out, asking among other things, about Dahl and Racor filters with plastic bowls. The insurance company included a disposable camera, and requested photos of the filter. After researching this situation with the folks at the ABYC and at Racor we discovered the following:

ABYC standards for inboard fuel filter installations for gasoline or diesel engines require that filters installed within the engine space must be able to pass a two and one-half minute heat test as defined by ANSI/UL 1105. Unfortunately, Gasoline and diesel filters that meet this requirement are generally equipped with a metal bowl. Filters with plastic sight bowls must be equipped with a metal heat shield to pass the test. Boaters with diesel engines who prefer a filter with a see-thru bowl should select one of the Turbine Series by Racor, which includes the heat shield. Racor spin-on filters (with metal bowls) for diesel installations are available by calling 1-800-BOATING.

So the choice is turbine filter with metal heat shield or what I have now which is spin on with a metal bowl.

The plastic add on bowl for a spin on is not acceptable, but you will find this on many boats.
 
I guess one option I could do would be to relocate all filters up above the engine room. Would make them very easy to check but could create a flow issue with fuel having to go uphill.
 
I think we are over thinking this. You don't know what is on your tanks so to begin I would have them cleaned then just use what you have. You are not making long passages just change filter every 100 hours or year and cut them pen to see what's up.
 
I'm amazed that Regal went so cheap and didn't use turbine Racors.

I personally would change over to turbine Racors. I know it is extra cost but the filtering/system is superior and you can easily spot a problem coming.
 
Ok so indeed turbine racors are fine when installed with the metal shield, which they come with anyway.

Dotn mess with th location, possibly creating issues with having to suck fuel higher etc, replace those 3 spin ons with the industry standard racor turbine.

As a bonus, filter changes takes half the time... It's really a and brainer.
 
Makese sense. My mains there is a direct replacement.
My genny right now is 30gph 1/4" nptf
The only turbine that is close is 60gph 3/4" sae

Does that matter? I assume i will need to adapt down the fuel line fitting from 3/4" to 1/4" to match fuel line.
Does the more GPH flow capacity create a issue?

The mains are the same GPH but the fittings are different, so again will need to figure out how to adapt.
Not sure why they make these different!
 
Currentsea -- At the start of this season I thought you were pursuing vacuum mages where you would know if a filter was plugging or not? Rather than using a 'color' scale and trying to associate that with how long the filter has left you would have a metric reading of exactly how plugged the filter is.
FWIW - I have clear bowl filters and the color of the bowls do not always correlate to the filter condition.
The filters are not in the engine room so the rules issues do not make for a problem.

Hope this helps
 
So you think I just stick with my current filters and add the vacuum gauges?
That would certainly be a hell of alot cheaper!
Also I assume the vacuum gauge on my genny would of seen the issue i had with the pickup since the issue was way before the filter?

I know i asked this once before but can you send me the details on the best gauge to buy and how to add it inline on the filter?
I think that is a better idea if what i said above is true.

Thanks!!
 
Smitty:
Fuel color does not necessarily relate to state of filters. In fact nice clear ruby fuel may indicate filters have done their job and removed junk. Dirty looking fuel surely indicates some problem developing and probably before filter clog or gauges start to rise.
 
Hello Dave,

The vacuum gages will read the exact resistance between you on engine fuel pump and the filter you put the vac gage in front of.
So on a typical recreational install where there is only one pre-filter it will go - tank > fuel valve/manifold > pre-filter > vac gage > to engine pump > then to on engine filter. Each system will have a different resistance to fuel flow based upon the fittings, hoses, filters chosen but normally the readings on the gage (all negative reflecting vacuum) will be similar to mine now which are:
- 2 to 2.5" /Hg = new filters
- 4 to 8" = typical partially used
- 8 to 9" = consider replacing
- 12 to 15" = will affect engine rpms and use

On our current boat we do not know exactly when it will affect the rpms as we do not let the filters get that far. On our last boat with similar engines and filters it was right about 14" on the gage that rpms began to fall.
Vacuum gages - You can buy the Racor ones but they are quiets expensive , we have bought vac gages form many places over the years such as thegagestore(dot)com, ebay, amazon, Sbmar(dot)com, etc. We look for any fuel gage that has a spec of about 2% accuracy and we prefer the larger 2" face with the bottom mounts and a wider sweep for our older eyes. These have cost us in the area of between $2- $30 per gage alone - we have bought 10 at a time on some occasions when friends ganged up orders.
The gages we mount we fill with glycerin to help dampen the natural pulse of fuel generated by the fuel pump as well as using 'snubbers' right before the gage which do the same. Clear glycerin bottles are real cheap (like $4) and we fill the gage ourselves as long as you buy them rated for glycerin fill. With the snubbers and glycerin the needles remains almost perfectly steady at the average readings without pulsing. I will try and find some pics of the gage and maybe a link to a good fuel article.
We are cruising now headed up state tomorrow so connections are an issue at times.
FWIW - with clean fuel I go about 600 gallons burned now (per engine)before the smaller Racor 500's on my boat read above 7" of vacuum.

Hope this helps
 
"Fuel color does not necessarily relate to state of filters. In fact nice clear ruby fuel may indicate filters have done their job and removed junk. Dirty looking fuel surely indicates some problem developing and probably before filter clog or gauges start to rise."

Bruce - I agree but I have seen these the following things since utilizing vacuum gages about 3 boats and 20 years back.

- A large 'glob' or 'globs' of crap on fuel bowls that read almost 'new' on the gage.
- Mostly clear bowls on the bottom with filters nearing replacement level numbers

I do miss the double filters I had on my last boat with two sets of vac gages on each side. I had added spin on bulk filters to the lines as we had a really bad fuel problem due to the boat sitting for so long prior to us buying it. One vac gage before each filter as I could easily see which filter was doing the 'work' and change them as necessary. The bulk filters pulled out many times the amount of 'crap' then the Racor 500's did - maybe extending the life 500% or so. When necessary with a bulk filter plugging I could go below and carry the prefilled spin on's in a bucket and change them in about 1/5th the time of the Racors.
I managed to move that boat from Haverstraw to Mattituck with only changing the bulk filters once. A prior test on the Hudson had me totaling the Racors (500's with 30 mic) out within an hour or less.

Hope this helps
 
Here is a link to our current filters with the vac gages that have the snubbers on top and are glycerin filled:

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47...0051208001651985.JPG/ps=50/r=0/rx=550/ry=400/

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b5cc26b3127ccecc9aac5d24c200000010O08AcN2rNq4btQe3nwQ/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00005785357820051208001643977.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

here is a link to a great article on fuel filters and vacuum gages:

http://www.sbmar.com/index.php/articles/marine_fuel_filtration_-_the_seaboard_way

Hope this helps
 
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