Trojan 440 Upgrades, Fixes and Ideas

I never realized you had them set up this way. Much better then side by side. Again it is amazing how they made so many changes from one boat to another. Let me know if you need help Dave.
I also did a couple of things today. Added a stainless steel grab rail for the kids going in and out of the boat and as I removed the door and the frame to the master head I installed 3/4 trim lock molding on the edge so rounding the entry.
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Thanks for looking Allen. Seems mine may be more complete than yours. I have put all of my manual on that blog you found. I guess I will go with my original plan to edit the manual until it matches my boat. lol

I did finish laying in the sub floor this weekend. I am off next weekend to SoCal for a week. I hope to get a good start on the rest of the actual flooring when I return
 
I ordered a new chartplotter, as soon as it arrives, I'll think about installing it. Other than that, I've done nothing yet...
 
What chartplotter did you get? I got a 740s for Christmas. Looking forward to getting that installed and using it as well.
 
I got a used Standard Horizon CP 1000c on ebay for a great price.
 
That is what I am replacing. Mine was having issues so I sent it in for repair. The sent it back and it worked until about September. Then I turned it on and the display was upside down and inverted. Still have the C-Max card if you need one, just message me your snail mail and I will send it to you.
 
Jim sorry it took so long, the local sign guy I ordered thru is non responsive, anyway, I wanted Starry Night letters but too many boat bucks for me. After a lot of searching I went with plastic letters from buysignletters.com. They come with pads so it's easy to glue them on, been a year and and no prob. lifetime warranty. As I remember around $150
Allen I mounted the same grab bar some time ago, it's great
 
quote:
Originally posted by odvar

Jim sorry it took so long, the local sign guy I ordered thru is non responsive, anyway, I wanted Starry Night letters but too many boat bucks for me. After a lot of searching I went with plastic letters from buysignletters.com. They come with pads so it's easy to glue them on, been a year and and no prob. lifetime warranty. As I remember around $150
Allen I mounted the same grab bar some time ago, it's great

Click to expand...

Got the stairs idea from you! :-)
 
I'm done! Hired someone else to finish. I still have to bottom paint and polish the boat.
 
I read that you cut your hand pretty good. How did you do that? I still have not put the final piece of hose from the tank to pump out yet. It is just to cold to get it flexible enough to pull the old hose out. I am afraid if I try yanking it through attached to the new his it could crack and break off in the 6' span under the fuel tank. I don't want to lift the fuel tank.

I didn't even go out there this weekend. Went to the boat shoiw in Baltimore yesterday and am boarding a flight for San Diego in a couple hours today. I will be back at it next weekend.

Allen - did you use vinyl cove base molding around the edges on your flooring?
 
I used FlexTrim self stick by Flexco. worked well under the couch and under the kitchen counter. For the rest and especially where its curved it didn't worked well. I am looking for flexible moulding instead. I looked at Odvar master state room floor and i liked what he have around the bed floor base. I think thats the way to go.
 
quote:
Originally posted by odvar

Jim sorry it took so long, the local sign guy I ordered thru is non responsive, anyway, I wanted Starry Night letters but too many boat bucks for me. After a lot of searching I went with plastic letters from buysignletters.com. They come with pads so it's easy to glue them on, been a year and and no prob. lifetime warranty. As I remember around $150
Allen I mounted the same grab bar some time ago, it's great

Click to expand...


Odvar,

Thanks for the info. I was checking them out but was stuck on what ones would work. Do you know the name of the style/material you purchased? They have so many options!

Thanks,

Jim
 
Jim
here is the sign co I dealt with in Bellevue Wash. asigncorb2@gr5tfrontier.com It's a small co, they remember H2Office
 
Okay, so I was back at it today. With temps in the low 60s I decided to tackle the last piece of waste line. The one that runs under the fuel tanks and through the two bulk heads to the engine room. Only on problem. It will not budge. They used some kind of hard caulking to seal the hole the hose goes through. And it is not coming loose. I even went so far as to drill a hole through the line in the engine room and use a winch to pull on it. So I went out and got some stuff that issupposed to ddissolve the caulk. I put that on the caulk liberally, cranked it down with the winch and am hoping it has broke loose tomorrow when I go back. The only alternative way to get it out vis to lift the fuel tank up and get at the back side of those bulk heads.
 
I have two that go through that way. They told me it was a major PITA but they manage to break them free. After they pulled them out they drilled out the holes one size larger to feed the new hole through. They slip a length of metal pipe into the new hose and used a heat gun to warm the hose before trying to running into place. They had pulled a thin rope through first and made a hole in the new hose tied the rope to it and pulled it through. I watched them do this and it went very easy I was not there when they removed the old hose frankly I'm glad I missed that:) I have replaced both feeds from the vacuflush pumps into the tanks and both of the outputs to the engine room into my y valve (I know now of you have this Y valve) I plan to replace the feed into the macerator pump and the feed to the pump out. I didn't see a reason to change the hose from the toilet to the pump nothing ever sits in that hose but I can always change it later. I will not have any hose left in fact I may be a little short as it is. I know I would need 50'. Today I laid the carpet back down on the floor and reinstalled the stairs, I didn't glue the carpet yet I want to give it a chance to flatten out after having been rolled for several weeks.

John don't worry you won't have to deal with the fuel tank you will got it out! Do you own a dremel? I was thinking I would use a bit to remove the caulk at least in the engine room where there is some room. Also you may want to try using a heat gun to soften the caulk as well as the hose you will be able to work it out without a major problem.
 
Oddly the engine side has no caulk. It is the saloon side. I am going to try to get my drml in there tomorrow
 
It took some yanking and cranking, still more yanking, a come along and a prayer and offering to Poseidon to finally get the old hose out but it came out. I had a friend from out of town helping me and the piece from the holding tank to the pump out was going no where. It was caulked in with 15 year old caulk and would not budge. I did try Dave's suggestion today of using the dremel as much as I could. That helped a bit but was starting to cut into the waste tube. So we fashioned a come along and started pulling on it using that. It did move a little bit but finally broke off the end of hose. So we worked it from the other direction. Finally it started to move. Mark suggested that before we risk having it break off under the fuel tank we either break something or pray. So I used the bolt we were using through the hose for the come along and we stepped on the swim platform. We offered the bolt we were using to Poseidon if he would see his way to help us get that POS hose out. We took a 5er and then went back in. I pushed from the engine room and Mark pulled from the saloon. While still difficult, it slid through and in 15 minutes it was connected to the holding tank. Not wanting to push our luck we went to lunch. Came back from lunch and within an hour the other end was routed and connected to the pump out, everything was secured and the job done.

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Next time I am giving up the bolt on day 1. LOL

Now we can finally finish the floors.
 
John it looks like you have a lot more room around you tank there is no way I could have used the PVC the bends would be much to tight to work with I had mixed emotions about trying I went the easy way and used all the same Sealand hose.

So how did you make out with the hose run? How did you remove the old hose?
 
Thanks Allen

Dave, there is a description of the event (yes event) above. I really wanted to use all PVC but the only way that was happening was by removing one of the fuel tanks and the batteries and splicing three sections together. The final run of hose from the tank to pump out is 28' though. I could have use PVC again once it was in the engine compartment but felt at that point it would not do much good. The hose in there does not have waste sitting in it like the hose in the bilge.
 
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